Helpful Information to DOG owners...
by Steve Wolfson
While out and about, I will sometimes encounter a person on the street walking their Rottweiler and after inquiring about the dog's background the owner most often adds "I bought it as a show dog, but decided not to show it. Not wanting to burst the owner's bubble, mentally I will conclude the dog was never intended to be of show quality, and for all concerned I let the owner remain with the fantasy. Thinking about this particular problem, I thought it appropriate to discuss and define what exactly is, a show dog.
Many new exhibitors in their zeal to purchase a show dog can be easily confused by breeders and or, sold a bill of goods as to the attributes, the "show ability" of the pup they have just bought. How useful a tool it would be if we all had a template by which to define and measure what a show dog is before we put money down to buy one.
A variety of strange things occur to dog and owner on the way to the show ring. Sometime, somewhere down the road the show specimen which came with a high price tag turns out not a show dog at all, but merely a nice family pet. Is there a way to prevent this from happening? Not completely, since things which are made of flesh and blood don't always turn out the way we want. Nonetheless, a new prospective buyer, or even a old prospective buyer can profit with a solid definition to work from.
The problem lies in the semantics of the definition. What one person calls a show dog may not be the same for everyone and because there is no actual definition of a show dog out in the field, the following occurs:
1.The breeder is a novice and has not yet developed the skills to pick a potential show pup from the litter. The new litter is from two champions, therefore the novice thinks success is guaranteed and calls them all show dogs.
2.The new owner has little skill and has not yet formulated a definition of what a show dog is.
3.There is a percentage of hungry handlers that will parade an unworthy dog in the show ring, get it points, even a championship, from judges who are friendly.
We've all been at ringside and noticed on occasion (I think lately with more frequency) a dog or bitch that a handler or owner is representing as a show specimen, but in reality is no more than a family pet. I believe this happens with honesty and a sincere wish to make it a champion, however, few will step up and tell the owner the show dog which they paid "bucksdeluxe" for is not a worthy specimen for the competition ring. The actual responsibility is not for the spectators to say what is or is not a show dog, the place and time for this decision is in the ring with the judge. It is the judge's job to excuse, for lack of merit, any specimen which does not measure up to the standard. Unfortunately few judges will do this seemingly dirty deed because they either don't want to make waves, just don't know, or even care.
I had argued this very point a while ago on an internet chat room and requested the definition of a show dog from the people on the subscriber list. The answers I got were somewhat surprising. Some refused to make any commitment towards a definition at all, yet a few specified that "a show dog is a dog which has no disqualifying faults".
This to me is a flimsy and very liberal interpretation of what a show dog is since many, many dogs could easily fall into this category, yet in my opinion, never do well under a knowledgeable judge. Here is my definition:
A show dog is a dog that exhibits the following qualities:
1. No disqualifying faults, according to the standard.
2. Possesses breed type.
3. Faults are minor in nature and would be defined as "could use more of" rather than "lacking in".
4. Show attitude, a willingness to perform under pressure of the show ring.
5. Can place in the ribbons in any show, under any judge at least four out of seven times.
6. Has balance.
Let's examine in more detail the above points since I don't want to be misleading or vague on any of them. As for point number one I don't think there needs to be any discussion about a show dog being required not to have any disqualifying faults, as by definition it would eliminate the dog from competition.
2. Possesses breed type.
Type, to me, is the paramount attribute I look for when selecting a pup or adult as a show dog. It is prerequisite, the characteristic which makes it stand out as a representative of the breed, what a judge looks for. Admittedly, few breeds have such high requirements to pass as show dog like that of the Rottweiler.
A dog cannot be competitive if it lacks overall breed type* (see end of article). A pup or adult must possess: a correct Rottweiler head piece, dark eye, correct dentition, dark gums, good bone strength, correct short back, good color of markings, correct Rottweiler gait, overall balance, and in that order of importance. Without all these important ingredients together it may do reasonably well in the show ring, win some ribbons, even become a champion, but will never climb to the top of it's class without them.
I have seen many successful show careers based on a single aspect of the dog, be it a great head piece, excellent movement, good top lines. Yes, these dogs did possess a great single attribute, but under closer inspection were in need of other important aspects to complete balance.
The single attribute problem can be observed in the "specials" class. After the dog/bitch has become a "Champion" the owner now embarks on the campaign trail to promote their new champion. However, sometimes after viewing the specials class we observe there was nothing special in it.
3. Faults are minor in nature and would be defined as"could use more of" rather than "lacking in"
In the area of structure the prospective show pup or adult can not have outstanding construction problems since possessing a major fault would render it unworthy for the show ring. Faults I would consider major and render it noncompetitive as a show prospect are: easty-westy, out at the elbows, fiddle front, weak, strongly bouncing topline, hocky, sickle hocked, steep sloping croup, splay feet, inadequate angulation, roached back.
Structural faults I would consider minor are: slightly soft pasterns, moderate sloping croup, slight softness in top line, slightly turned out at pasterns, moderate angulation, barrel chested, elbows standing a bit away from chest, etc..
Another area which I think demands attention are the so-called "cosmetic and or type faults". I'm not sure where the term "cosmetic faults" came from since it implies something which can be removed easily. I have heard it used many, many, times and frankly I think inappropriately used to rationalize almost every fault under the sun. Having seen quite a few show pups which have had a structural fault, I often hear the owner/breeder minimize by calling it cosmetic, nothing to worry about. A panacea excuse for many problems incorrect.
A cosmetic fault to me is a fault that can be improved upon, easily, in the next generation. Lightness in gums, mottled gums, lightness in markings, sooty markings, coarseness in coat, too fine in coat, these can be improved upon in the next generation.
A type fault is a fault which diminishes the overall look of the breed. Narrow skulls, long muzzles, light eyes,( I have also overheard many say that eye color is merely a cosmetic fault, on the contrary, dark eye color is so fundamental to breed type, light eyes should never be considered cosmetic),long backs, long on leg, too short on leg, pink gums, narrow snipey muzzles, spindly bones, no fill under eyes, shallowness in chest, these are type faults, serious in nature and should be avoided with zeal.
Any structural fault which has manifested itself in the bones takes many generations to improve upon and should also not be considered cosmetic.
4. Show attitude, a willingness to perform under pressure of the show ring.
Every show dog must have a an "up and ready" attitude, a willingness to perform, since without this key ingredient why bother? Even if a show potential pup or adult were to be flawless in structure and type, how unexciting the dog would be if it entered the show ring and exhibited an attitude with ears down and no expression.
I was told many years ago the best show dog was one that may have a few faults which were somewhat undesirable, but could compensate for this inadequacy with "fire and pizzazz. Always remember the show ring is a competition, therefore attitude and posture is a good percentage on what a dog is going to be judged. Most dogs don't have that special attitude which separates them from the others, but on occasion it is abundantly evident with certain prospects.
5. Can place in the ribbons in any show, under any judge at least four out of seven times.
How, you may ask, did I arrive at 4 out of 7? It is understood that even the best dog will not win every show or place under every judge. Even the great race horse Secretariat lost a race now and then, so I allowed for this possibility by giving it a reasonable 4 out of 7.
But after reading # 5 you may also ponder and say "what does this have to do with the qualifications of a show dog, or perhaps you may think it too demanding a request. Either one, I feel it is integral to the definition, let me explain.
Placing in the ribbons is vital to my "definition of a show dog" because it spells out the dog's function, it's purpose. Why buy a show dog if it cannot fulfill it's job in the show ring? Why buy a race horse if it isn't competitive? (some do buy show dogs just to say they are the owners of one, but that is material for another article). In order for it to be called a show dog, should it not win or at least place in the ribbons?
It's not specifically the function that the dog must fulfill which I am somewhat critical of, I added this part to the definition in order the seller of the dog is held accountable. By making the seller define the capabilities of the show dog they are selling , it forces them to be more selective in what they call a show dog since it must also accomplish a function.
We all know there are politics in the show ring which make it easy for some, tough for others to finish a dog. Included with this political complexity are the dogs which are excellent and finish fast, dogs which need mercy from the judges and a gray area wherein a dog has been campaigned for a long time, even years and just doesn't seem to finish. Why?
The problem lies most likely because this type of dog has some major problem i.e.: structural, type fault , or perhaps it just has a lack luster performance in the ring (conditions #2, #3, or # 4). Either way, the owner spends a great deal of money, time and doesn't get what they bargained for.
What does the owner do when this happens? Unfortunately they can't do very much unless a definition of a show dog was specified in the contract.
I have seen this scenario occur time after time. A person buys a dog from a breeder in good faith, pays $1,500.00 $2,500.00 for the dog and it never ever gets a ribbon, yet in the contract it was specified a show dog. Without the exact meaning of what the breeder calls a show dog, much is left to mere interpretation as a subjectivity call by the breeder. Who can argue with an opinion? I once asked a breeder what he called a show dog after reading his contract of sale, he replied, to my amazement, "any dog that has no disqualifying faults is a show dog". That would be equivalent to saying "all cars are race cars as long as they have 4 wheels and an engine".
Most of us have seen dogs in the show ring, which by the lowest of standards, just makes the grade (personally these types should be excused from the ring for lack of merit) hardly what I would call a show dog.
Fortunately for me being involved with the Rottweiler and dogs in general for many years, puts me in an advantageous position when choosing a new prospective show dog. I know what qualities are necessary to make that caliber of dog. My expectations are high, but the expectations of the novice may not be, therefore it would be easy to sell a show prospect to someone who's criteria is limited.
6. Has balance
Balance, a term I hear so seldom these days is ultimately important to a show dog. As in part 2 of the definition, I mentioned singular attributes of type which some dogs possessed i.e.: spectacular heads, super top lines, great movement. I would like to define "balance" as an overall harmonious symmetry which a dog exhibits. A dog which when all parts are considered relate to each other in correct proportions, producing symmetry.
Dr. Alvin Grossman makes an interesting point on this by saying in his book "The Standard Book of Dog Breeding" (Doral Publishing):
"Far too many breeders seem overly concerned with the individual parts of the dog. Many breeders subconsciously feel that when they know, to their own satisfaction, what a good head is, what a good front is, what constitutes good neck and shoulders, what a wellangulated rear looks like, etc., that there is nothing more for them to learn. The concept of relating the various parts of the dog to each other and viewing this relationship as a whole, rather than as a series of individual good or bad traits, is the key that so many breeders never grasp."
There have been some very good examples of this concept in show dogs which were not outstanding in any singular area, but did possess a balance in relation to themselves. This balance propelled them further in the competition because of their unique symmetry whereas so many other dogs are no more than "dogs of different parts", as one my mentors would say. In these less fortunate dogs the different parts if critiqued separately were good, but because they were so poorly matched in the sum total of the dog they can not attain symmetry.
An area which has become very prominent as an example of this mismatch is angulation. So many dogs are well angulated in the front but poorly angulated in the rear, or vice versa (this is a problem I see in many Rottweilers in the show ring at present). A harmoniously built dog where angulation is equal front and rear is becoming more and more rare.
Objectivity is essential when selecting a dog for competition, since ultimately the judgment of your show dog is rendered on an objective basis. By using "definition of a show dog" as a template, objectivity can be applied in evaluating the dog the same way a judge does . Whether it is used as a tool for grading a litter or buying a prospective show pup or adult, it can eliminate the temptation of measuring the dog on an emotional level and getting stuck with a dog that was really not equipped for the show ring.
*For the meaning of Rottweiler type see "Priority of breed type in the Rottweiler part 1,2.3 Canine Workshop
You may be wondering whether or not you should breed your dog. Here is some information. The summary is that if you want to do it right, and get healthy and happy puppies, it is very expensive and a lot of work. Many people have written several treatises on this subject including Ms Swedlow; this article compiles many similar points.
Remember that you are going to need a vet that is familiar with whelping dogs. This will be your best resource, as well as any long-time breeders that you know. Not all vets are knowledgeable about whelping so be sure to ask around and especially look for recommendations from local breeders that you may know.
Breeding, and doing it right, is an expensive undertaking. By the time you've picked out a good bitch, waited for her to grow old enough (minimum age: two years before breeding), picked out the best dog to mate her with, gone through all the health checks she needs, ensured that the dog you want to use also passes the same health checks, you've invested a lot of time and effort. You still have to pay a stud fee (or give a puppy back), you have potential extra expenses during pregnancy, you have the time and expense of whelping (either you take time off from work or something goes wrong and you have to take her in to the vets). You need to keep the puppies for a minimum of 8 weeks before sending them to their homes; you need to advertise and find good homes for the puppies, you need to make sure they have had their shots before going. You may have possible vet bills if the puppies require extra attention. If some of the puppies die, or you have a smaller than usual litter, you may not get as much money from the sale of the puppies as you had though. There are even potential problems later on with dissastified customers! You are better off consulting with a financial wizard about investing the money you would otherwise spend and lose on breeding!
Breeders frequently count themselves lucky if they break even.
What if the whelping goes wrong and dead puppies are born? What if the bitch dies? These are all very real risks that you are undertaking. Much better alternatives include videotapes that are available. If there are local 4-H clubs, those provide alternatives for children.
Or, you could contact your local shelter and see if there is a pregnant bitch about to whelp or a litter of puppies that need to be raised and socialized before being adopted out. This would allow you to find out just what this could entail, while helping the shelters rather than potentially contributing to the problem.
If you want to breed your dog so as to get another dog like yours, think about this for a moment. No matter how special your dog is to you, a puppy out of it is not guaranteed to be just like or even similar to your dog -- half its genes will be from another dog! You will have to find another dog that also has the characteristics you want in your puppy; that dog will have to be unneutered; and the owner of that dog will have to be willing to breed her/his dog to yours. It is much easier, often less expensive, and certainly less time consuming to pick out an existing dog that you like from the shelter or another breeder. Best yet, go back to the same breeder of your dog, if possible, and pick another puppy out of similar lines.
This is flat out wrong. Bitches are not improved by having puppies. They may undergo temporary temperament changes, but once the puppies are gone, she'll be back to her old self. Nor is it somehow good for her physically. In fact, you will put her at risk of mammary cancer and pyometra. There is absolutely nothing wrong with spaying a bitch without her having a litter.
Well, yes, but that doesn't mean a whole lot. A registered dog, be it AKC, UKC, CKC, etc., simply means that it's parents (and their parents) are also registered with the same registry. This confers no merit in of itself, it simply means that the dog's parentage is known.
Most registries do not make any assertions of quality in the dogs they register (except for some limited breed-only registrations, but these are uncommon). They do not restrict the breeding of their dogs and hence there is no guarantee that a registered dog is a good specimen of its breed.
The AKC has just started a "limited registration" program whereby puppies out of such dogs are ineligible for registration. It remains to be seen what the overall impact on AKC dog breeds will be. Other registries have used similar programs with good results.
The only reason you should be breeding is that you honestly feel that you are improving your breed by doing so. There are far too many dogs in the country to breed without good reason. A dog in a breeding program must be one whose genetic history you or its breeder is intimately familiar with. Such a dog must represent the best efforts of its breeder at that point. Such a dog must have good points to contribute, whether that is in good conformation, good performance or whatever. Such a dog must have some evidence of external evaluation. That is, others besides the breeder or the owner must also think that the dog is a good representive of its breed. That usually translates into titles, whether for conformation, obedience, field, herding, or whatever is appropriate for that breed. Such a dog must be tested as it matures for any problems that tend to appear in its breed, whether that is hip dysplasia, patellar luxation, von Willebrand's, cataracts, PRA, fanconi syndrome, subaortic stenosis, etc.
Every breed has a different set of potential problems for it. I have listed common ones below, but this is not to say that all dogs must be checked for everything listed. You need to do research in your breed to find out what the common problems are. You will also need to research the particular bloodlines you are using to see if they are prone to any additional problems you want to know about and screen for as well.
Most breeds require eye checks of some sort, for a variety of problems. These include, but are not limited to problems such as
The Canine Eye Registry Foundation (CERF) in the USA registers dogs that are found to be clear of eye problems by a board certified (AVCO) veterinarian. Dogs need to be cleared yearly as there are some types of eye problems that show up later in life.
There are a variety of joint problems found in most breeds. Toy breeds can have joint problems too; just because your breed is smaller doesn't mean you can figure you are free of hip dysplasia and be done with it. There are several problems that specifically affect smaller dogs!
There are a few other types of problems, affecting other joints like the hocks, or affecting the spine, that you should be aware of in some breeds. This is only an overview to give you an idea of what kinds of problems are out there. Remember that joint problems, even if not hereditary, may make it problematic for a bitch to be bred. Pregnancy is hard on the joints and on the body in general and if she isn't in the best of physical health, it is much kinder not to breed her.
Finally, remember that not only the potential dam but also the sire must be checked for all the things appropriate for their breed and particular bloodlines.
You must make sure the bitch and the stud both are free from brucellosis before breeding them. Brucellosis causes eventual sterility in both sexes (sometimes non-obviously) and can cause a litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth. In addition, brucellosis is on occasion transmissible to humans via the urine or feces of an affected dog. Between dogs, it is most commonly passed in sexual intercourse, although an entire kennel can be infected through contact with secretions.
The sire should be in excellent general health. The dam must be in good health, to withstand the stresses and rigors of a pregnancy. They must both be up to date on their vaccinations.
Never breed any animal that has temperament problems. In particular, this has been the cause of the degeneration of many breed's general temperament: Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, and so on. If your animal is untrustworthy around people, overly aggressive to people, excitable, or is a fear-biter, do not breed it. If it is shy or submissive, don't breed it. Look for happy, confident and obedient animals, and consider carefully the particular temperament requirements for your dog's breed.
There are a variety of tests to indicate a dog's temperament. Many of the working breeds have a temperament test (for example, the Doberman's WAC test) for their breed. AKC has a Canine Good Citizen test (open to all dogs) that gives some indication of the dog's temperament (and, yes, training). Therapy Dogs International and other Therapy Dog clubs have temperament testing that does try to separate out actual temperament from training. Obedience titles can be (but are not necessarily) an indication of good temperament.
You must carefully consider each dog's pedigree for compatibility. Try to select strengths to offset weaknesses. Do not allow your bitch to be bred to an unsuitable dog, and conversely, be picky about the bitches you allow your dog to breed. This phase alone requires considerable research to find a suitable candidate, and you should definitely work closely with a knowledgeable person, ideally the breeder of your dog. Simply because two dogs "look good" or even *are* good does not mean that they necessarily complement each other: suppose they are both carriers for the same disease? Suppose they both have a tendency to overbites or other disqualifying faults?
Be honest with yourself. If your dog is not a good representation of its breed, do not let it reproduce. It is much easier to improve a few faults than to try and get excellent pups with a mediocre dog. Check the breed standard for your dog and ask a knowledgeable person for their evaluation of your dog.
We'll return the the importance of scrutinizing a pedigree in the genetics section below.
Ideally, a bitch should only be bred every other year and she should not be bred much before two years of age. The season closest to the second birthday is a good one to start with; certainly no earlier than this. In some breeds, you may need to wait one more season before beginning. By this time, she is better prepared mentally for having puppies than she would have been with her first few seasons. Her physical growth is complete and pregnancy at this point won't endanger her health, provided that she is healthy to begin with.
In breeds with Hip Dysplasia, many people wait until after two years of age so that the parents can be certified; however if you have sent in xrays to OFA for preliminary evaluation and they came back as fine, many breeders consider it safe enough to then breed on the season closest to the second year, which can wind up being before the bitch is actually old enough to be certified. (And when the bitch is old enough, she is, of course, duly certified.) But the preliminary xrays must be examined by OFA, not by a local veterinarian. There are many dysplastic dogs out there that had vets look at their xrays and pronounce them "wonderful."
It's important, however, to keep the frequency of breeding low. Even at maximum, you want to allow at least one unbred season between breedings. This allows your bitch to rest and regain her strength. A bitch that whelps too often will produce weaker puppies more likely to die, and the repeated pregnancies are pretty rough on her, too.
For dogs, they should definitely have all their certifications necessary. For many breeds this means that they should be over two years old. Since a dog can be bred at any time, unlike bitches, waiting for two years is not a problem, whereas a bitch often has a season just before two years of age and then has to wait until 2.5 or three which sometimes presents problems in trying to time her litters. But this does not apply to a stud dog, so he should definitely have all of his checks and certifications before being bred. Frequency is not generally a problem although some dogs have problems with sperm production if they breed once a day for several days. They need top-quality feeding and care if they are going to be bred often.
You should make sure the bitch is up-to-date on all her vaccinations, medications, and shots before she is bred. She will require supplementary food during the last three weeks or so of pregnancy. In general, puppy food is formulated both for puppies and pregnant or nursing bitches.
She should be under the care of a vet for any related problems. Dogs can have miscarriages. Illnesses, diseases, or infestations that the bitch picks up during her pregnancy can affect the puppies. Difficulties during whelping are entirely possible, and the rule for some breeds. You must be prepared to get her to the vet quickly in an emergency.
There are instances of "mummy puppies" where you have a puppy whose development went awry, but it was not aborted. Instead, it dries and shrivels up, and when born, looks like a mummified puppy, blackened and ready to rot. Overbreeding and inadequate care are usually the causes. It is quite likely that the dam will come down with an infected uterus after such a puppy. "Water puppies" are another type of problem in which the dead puppy appears to have never properly developed a skeleton and appears to be full of gelatin. This seems to be linked to a viral exposure.
Other congenital (but not genetic) defects can include: no anus, cleft palates and hare lips. These conditions require corrective surgery or the puppy will die.
While the bitch is nursing the puppies, she will require about three times the amount of food she normally eats! It is also common for nursing mothers to go out of coat at this time.
You should have a sturdy, clean, proper sized whelping box for the litter. It MUST include a "pig rail" around the edge to prevent the bitch from laying on or smashing her pups. It should be big enought to allow the bitch to turn around but small enough to prevent the pups from being "lost" in the unused portions. About six inches longer than she is, fore and aft, when laying prone (as in suckling her puppies) and about a foot on either side length wise.
To get the whelping box ready for your bitch, get a sheet of plastic, such as you would use for painting a ceiling to protect the floor. Cut it up into several pieces the size of the whelping box. Put one piece of plastic down, several layers of newspaper, another piece of plastic, more layers of newspaper and so on for four or five layers. Then when your bitch is whelping puppies, you can roll off a layer when it gets messy -- and it will! -- and throw it away to instantly clean the whelping box.
After the puppies are born, there are many strategies for lining the whelping box. Some people continue to use newspapers, but puppies get pretty dirty from both newspaper print and feces. Other people have had success with synthetic materials on top of absorbent materials: the synthetic material provides secure footing, but the urine and other liquids pass through it to leave it dry. Other people use pine shavings (about six inches deep). You will do a lot of laundering to keep things clean no matter what you use. You will also have to clean the feces out of the whelping box after your bitch decides that's no longer her job.
Newborn puppies MUST be kept warm. The temperature in the whelping box at birth should be 90 F. The temperature can then be decreased 2 degrees every other day. NEVER FEED A CHILLED PUPPY!!! If a puppy becomes chilled it will cry continually and it will tuck its tail between its little legs. A healthy, happy, litter will "purr" like a swarm of bees and when feeding their tails will be straight out from their bodies. Warm any chilled puppy by putting the puppy under your shirt and under your armpit. The best method of warming a puppy is to use a special whelping box heating pad with a towel over it to prevent soiling the pad. Make sure the temerature does not go too high. Heating lamps are ok but puppies can become dehydrated. If the litter clumps together and cries, they are too cold; if they separate and try to hide under shade, they are too hot.
Large litters will require supplemental feedings if you want all the puppies to survive. Your bitch may not be able to care for a very large litter. You will need to get the pups rotating on shifts. For the first two weeks you may have to supplement as much as every four hours. Use a good prepared milk-supplement especially formulated for puppies. If you get in a bind you can use a goat-milk reciepe avilable in most books about breeding and whelping pups. You may have to tube feed those pups that will not suckle from a bottle!
Are you going to remove the dewclaws or dock a tail? This must be done by 3 days old at the latest! Any later will not heal as nicely or quickly!
If you have a purebred litter, you must record the date of birth and all of the pups (including the dead ones) in your record book. Then you will need to fill out and send in your litter registration form. You want to do this as soon as possible, since many registries can take up to 6 weeks to return the forms for individual registration to you (which you will want to give to your puppy buyers later).
You will have to keep the whelping box clean. For the first two weeks the bitch will keep the pups pretty clean, but the bedding should be changed twice a day at minimum. Starting week three, the pups start to eliminate some on their own.. then you will need to clean much more often!
At four weeks, the pups usually become very active and it this time may require a larger area then the whelping box...you will need a large ex-pen or some way of confining them safely. You do have a place to keep them that they are safe in and can't destroy? Puppies at this stage can devastate a room or garage in hours.
At week five you will probably want to introduce the pups to weaning food. Usually you will have to mush up the dry puppy food for the pups to be able to eat it. Use warm water and let the food stand in a bowl for about 2 hours.
At week six you should vaccination and worm the pups, and have them checked for heart murmers, hernias, males for testicles (yes you should be able to feel them at 6 weeks!), deafness, and eye problems.
You should be socializing now too... And are you going to do any puppy testing for temperaments? At seven weeks you should be calling up those poeple with deposits on your pups and getting your paper work all sorted out. Are your spay/neuter contracts ready? How about pictures of the pups for your clients?
And this is just if everything goes perfectly! What happens if one of the pups has a heart murmer, or a hernia? What about a deaf puppy? What if your whole litter gets parvo or distemper? What happens if one of the pups is affected with "swimmer-puppy" syndrome? What about fading-puppy syndrome? What happens if your bitch gets an infection or mastitis? What if she dies?
After the puppies are born, if not before, you must consider placing your puppies. Time and time again, people breed a litter because friends and family want one of their dog's puppies -- and then none of them will take one.
At six weeks is when even seasoned breeders wonder why they do this. A healthy active litter of six will run you ragged at this age. They are so curious, they want to explore everywhere, and they are at the prime age for socialization and exposure to many things that you, as a responsible breeder, want to give them a head start on.
At eight weeks, you may begin placing those pups that are ready to go to their new homes. Insecure pups may need more time, how are those puppy tests coming? You can't place puppies earlier than 7.5 weeks or so (no matter how much you may want to).
Are you prepared to do some legwork to find GOOD homes for them, not just hand them off to the first person who comes by? You are aware that you won't always be able to sell all of your puppies locally, aren't you? What assurances do you have that the puppies will not wind up filling animal shelters, facing death because their parents were thoughtlessly bred? Suppose you wind up keeping more of the litter than you intended to? Suppose some of your puppies are returned? Can you keep the extra puppies?
First, remember that it is extremely difficult to come up with a top quality stud dog that people want to use. After all, they will look around and pick out the best male they can find. So your dog has to be pretty impressive to be noticed in the competition.
Your male should be in top condition. He should be certified clear of joint problems (and in many cases that means he has to be at least two years old). His eyes should be checked annually. He should be clear of any abnormalities common to his breed. No heart problems, no seizures, no thyroid problems, etc. He should be clear of brucellosis. His temperament should be good, and appropriate for his breed. If you have such a dog, you will need to get your dog well known. This generally involves showing your dog (in show, field, or obedience) and doing other work with him. An unproven dog (that has no previous puppies or only puppies too young to evaluate) will command a much lower stud dog fee than a proven dog (with a record of puppies to examine).
You must be prepared to board the bitch. The common procedure is for the bitch to be shipped out to stud, so you will need facilities to board bitches in heat. These facilities should be adequate for up to a week of boarding and to prevent any mismating. You might wind up with more than one bitch at a time -- can you board them all safely?
You must monitor the mating and be ready to intervene if necessary. Some breeds require intervention (such as Basset Hounds). Not all dogs or bitches understand what to do, especially if it is the first time for one or the other. It can be disastrous if two dogs are left alone to mate. Additionally, if the mating doesn't take, are you prepared to go through the whole thing again the next time the bitch comes into season? Typical contracts call for free repeat breeding in the case two or less puppies occur or the breeding doesn't take.
You need to be able to evaluate the bitch's pedigree for compatibility with your dog's. Any good points or bad points of the litter are (rightly or not) attributed to the sire, so your dog's reputation is at stake with each litter he sires. You should be reasonably confident that the proposed breeding will result in good puppies.
If the owner of the bitch is a novice, are you prepared to assist with advice on whelping and puppy care? These people will expect you to have the answers. Sometimes entire litters of puppies are dumped on the stud dog owner when the bitch's owners can no longer cope with them because they didn't realize what a responsibility caring for a litter involved. Are you ready to take care of and place your dog's offspring if this should happen to you?
Are you prepared to deal with cases where you are certain your dog is not the sire of the puppies but the bitch's owner insists that he is? Or if the owner of the bitch insists that you must have allowed a mismating to occur when she was boarded with you? Disputes of this sort can become very ugly very quickly.
If a purebred dog of breed X mated with a purebred dog of breed Y, both meeting health standards for their breed, is there a better chance the offspring would be healthier than a same breed mating because the gene pool is larger?
In terms of health alone the first answer would be that in breeding two healthy dogs it shouldn't matter if they're the same of different breeds, you're apt to get healthy pups. But this doesn't take into account the question of recessives. Suppose you breed two dogs of different breeds that both have the same incidence of a recessive health problem. The pups would have the same odds of having that health problem as purebred pups of either breed. On the other hand, suppose the two dogs were of breeds that have no recessive health problems in common. This would reduce or eliminate the odds of the puppies of having the health problems of either breed. This is the classic explanation for the theory of first generation hybrid vigor. The resulting pups should not be bred though, since they'd have a good chance of having the recessives from BOTH breeds, so the grandpups would be inclined to be worse off than the purebred offspring of their grandparents. An excellent set of articles dealing with "hybrid vigor" can be found in DogWorld, Jan 1997 by George Padgett DVM. Another very important point to keep in mind is that when a purebred carrying a genetic defect is crossed with another breed or mixed breed, the "bad" genes do NOT "go away" even though they may not be expressed in the offspring. If crossed with another dog carrying the same defect, the offspring of that breeding will demonstrate the defect.
Purebred dogs have all these diseases, though! It seems that you never hear about mixed breed dogs with problems.
Responsible breeders try to identify genetic diseases their dogs might be carrying and to eliminate them by careful breeding. It is ironic, though not surprising, that their efforts to identify and weed out genetic problems have lead some to cry "look at all the genetic diseases purebred dogs have!" A moment's careful thought will lead you to the conclusion that mixed breeds carry the same harmful genes (their parents, or their parents' parents, were purebreds, after all). The differences are
· with some recessive disorders (though not all genetic defects) the disease is less likely to be expressed (though it can still be inherited by offspring)
· you have lesser likelihood of ever identifying or eliminating any harmful genes your mixed breed may be carrying
Also, if you stop and think about it, many mixed breeds are simply not tested for most problems. When they get older and limp, it's just considered old age, although it could well be hip dysplasia. When they get older and start to go blind, it could be PRA, but the owners are unlikely to test for this. It's not that owners of mixed breeds are bad, by any means, but they are not looking for possible inheritable problems, either.
When you breed two different breeds together, what kind of variation can you expect?
Pfaffenberger's book has some interesting data on this. He did some experiments with four different breeds. They were dogs of approximately the same size, but very different physical appearance AND behavior. The results he saw in the first and in subsequent mixed generations are pretty interesting.
Let's look at a common crossbreeding: "cockapoos" (which are not purebred dogs, nor registered with any registry). These are crosses between Cocker Spaniels and Minature or Toy Poodles. The dogs actually vary quite a bit, some being more poodle like than others, and some being more cocker like than others. However, they are generally all a small sized, buff colored shaggy dog. If you breed two cockapoos together (not generally done), you get an even wider variation of dogs -- some look like Minature Poodles, others like Cocker Spaniels. The reason for this is the recessive genes hidden in the first cross that came out in the second generation. This is actually a visual example of why "hybrid vigor" doesn't hold.
What is outcrossing?
Outcrossing is where the sire and dam are totally unrelated, preferably for three or four generations. The true form of an outcross is between two entirely different breeds because in reality the members of most registered breeds come from a common ancestor (althought it may be many, many generations back). It is very rare for outcrossed puppies to be uniform in appearance. Usually there are a very large ranges of sizes, coats, colors, markings, and other distinctive characteristics. Outcrossed litters are generally heterozygous, and do not reliably reproduce themselves, so even the nicest puppy in the litter may not later produce the best puppies.
Outcrossing is generally used to introduce something new to a line -- a better head, better colors, better front, etc. Usually the puppies retained from these breedings are bred back into the breeder's original line to standardize them back into the line's general characteristics and reproducibility -- with the one desired characteristic. The tricky part is that other characteristics may come along for the ride!
If you are dedicated enough, you can eventually continue breeding by outcrossing alone (but don't expect instant or quick results). You should pick dogs that complement each other well and are similar in general appearance. This is a long hard road to eventually developing a line. Through outcrossing, many health problems can quickly be eliminated (or just as quickly added into your breeding), but usually you do sacrifice some show quality and producibility.
You have to remember that dogs that appear totally healthy may be carriers of genetic problems. To find this out, test mating is done to a dog that is affected with the genetic problem (resulting usually in puppies that are both affected and non-affected carriers) or by inbreeding to a related dog that also doesn't show the signs of being affected (usually littermates are used) this will usually result in some puppies free of the problem, some puppies as carriers, and some puppies affected if both dogs carry the problem gene (this is not as accurate as breeding to an affected dog, but you are less likely to have to put all the puppies down).
There are variations on outcrossing. A "true" outcross could be a dog that has totally unrelated dogs bred together throughout the pedigree. This is very rare. On the other hand, "linecrossing" is a form of outcrossing where dogs from unrelated lines are bred to produce a new line. The sire and dam are usually very linebred from their prospective lines and the resulting puppies are varied in apprearance, some looking like the sire's line and some looking like the dam's line and some looking like mixtures of both lines.
How about line breeding?
Line breeding is when the sire and the dam are distantly related: e.g., grandsire to granddaughter, granddam to grandson, second cousins, half cousins, uncle to niece, aunt to nephew..... The general strategy is that there is a common ancestor that is being doubled up on both sides. So the desired dog appears several times in the pedigree.
This is probably the most common strategy in breeding purebred dogs (and in developing new breeds, for that matter). Though this method, new genes are slowly introduced and unwanted genes are slowly replaced. The actual rate varies by how strongly you line breed. It sacrifices little overall quality in terms of show quality. Usually the puppies are rather close in general conformation. The only problem with this method is that it often takes several generations to get poor genes out, (or adding desired genes in) resulting in many puppies that have the same genetic problems (or virtues) that their parents have. And then because some breeders are more interested in winning, they do not place the affected puppies on spay/neuter contracts. This is both a blessing and a curse for the breed. If the breeder is very careful, affected pups can be used wisely to prevent loss of quality, but still remove the affected genes by only breeding the affected pups to known non-carrier relatives. This way the breeder can again try to "edit out" the bad genes. It takes longer this way but less show quality is lost in the process. This process results in dogs that will often reproduce their same level of quality. This is referred to as reaching homozygous litters (more genes of the same kind apparent in the puppies).
Inbreeding and linebreeding really differ only in degree. Linebreeding is less likely to cause harm than inbreeding. Inbreeding is not for novices. Knowledge of genetics and the breed is required for success. For good results it must be well-planned and breeders must be ready for whatever problems it presents.
And inbreeding?
Inbreeding is where the sire and the dam are closely related: mother to son, father to daughter, sister to brother, half sister to half brother, cousin to cousin. People disagree about the exact point at which inbreeding becomes linebreeding. Inbreeding is the quickest way to find out what poor genes are in the line and what dominant characteristics are in the line.
Although many people are disgusted with the idea of this family incest, it is an extremely useful tool for diagnosing what genes are present. If the genes for bad eyes are present, but hidden or ressessive, this will bring them out to their full extent. If there isn't any bad genes, then the puppies will be of very close uniformity and very able to reproduce themselves (theroretically). This is a homozygous breeding. The resulting puppies will have a lot of genetic material that is the same as their parents and grandparents and will be close genetically to each other.
Inbreeding doesn't introduce new genes and does not eliminate bad genes that the line already has. It only shifts them around like a rubix cube. This often results in litters with high show potential, if the quality was high to begin with. It shows you what recessives you have lurking in the dogs' backgrounds -- both good and bad. But there are drawbacks. Besides the possibility of bad recessives, inbreeding exclusively will eventually lead to infertility. It's like a xerox machine. After so many copies, you have to renew the ink. The same with dogs, you have to introduce new genes. No reputable breeder will use inbreeding exclusively, and many breeders simply never use it. Usually, you will only find: very experienced breeders, ignorant breeders, and puppy mills making use of this technique.
Inbreeding increases the chance that a gene obtained from the sire will match one obtained from the dam, both stemming from the common ancestor(s) on which the individual was inbred. Thus, inbreeding tends to make animals homozygous rather than heterozygous. The inbreeding coefficient measures the resulting increase in homozygousity. All breeds have a given degree of homozygosity the mating of two dogs from the same breed would not produce a recognizable specimen of the breed!
Inbreeding increases homozygosity and decrease heterozygosity. So it can duplicate both desirable and harmful alleles, both of which can be unsuspected in the line, and may appear. Inbreeding does NOT create anomalies, it brings present anomalies to the surface. Even when the anomalies are present, inbreeding might not reveal them. However, once revealed, then the breeder can do something about them in the next generations of breeding.
An increase in harmful recessives is undesirable but it is not a major drawback if they are identified early. The effect of inbreeding on major polygenic traits is greater. Generally, traits that are highly inherited (ie largely additively controlled) are not adversely affected by inbreeding but, traits under non-additive control, especially those tied to dominance and thus not of high heritability, are often markedly harmed by inbreeding.
OK, how do pedigrees figure into this?
Remember that it is difficult to spot unaffected carriers. When an affected dog shows up, its pedigree is often examined for likely carriers. For example, PRA is a common problem in many breeds. There are dogs that come down with PRA that have a certain ancestor in common. That ancestor may then be considered a possible carrier and line breeding on him is avoided. This is a simplistic picture, obviously, since it's possible for an unaffected non-carrier of PRA to come from an unaffected carrier that came from an affected dog (therefore the affected dog is in the unaffected dog's pedigree). If a general blood test is ever developed that shows the presence of the recessive in an unaffected dog, then much more accurate breedings may be done; currently this is only possible for Irish Setters.
There is rarely only a single problem a breeder is trying to screen for. Suppose a suspected carrier of PRA is known for producing excellent hips. A breeder might therefore introduce that bloodline into theirs for the hips, and be willing to have the possibility of PRA show up in the line. In screening out one problem you might have to accept the possibility of another appearing.
Examining the pedigrees also lets you know what percent of ancestry the dogs share (since the relationships are often much more complex than simply cousins or aunt/uncle, the degree of common ancestry is often given as a percentage instead) and decide whether or not it's acceptable given your current goals.
What are like-to-like matings and compensatory matings?
Like to like mating implies the best to the best and the worst to the worst where the worst is not used at all. For most breeders, like to like matings are between dogs which resemble each other greatly and so similar type dogs are bred. These dogs may or may not be closely related.
The pups resemble their parents because of the genes in common with them. If those parents resembled each other their progeny would be even more like their parents. This tends to make the population look more uniform, however there is little increase in prepotency from this technique.
Compensatory Mating: This unlike to unlike mating is used by breeders to correct for a defect in an animal by mating it to another animal that might correct for the defect. The system is basically simple but the breeder must identify faults and virtues and it requires breed knowledge. The pedigrees of both dogs should be examined carefully to try to identify the ways in which the dogs differ and what the expected outcomes could be. A correct dog and not one who errs in the opposite direction is required. That is, if you want to improve structure, look for a dog with correct structure and not an overbuilt dog. This technique often results in only one or two pups with the combination desired.
But this is all very vague and complicated!
Yes, it is. There are no easy answers, and there are different things to consider in every breed. This uncertainty with respect to genetic inheritance is exactly the reason that breeding is so difficult to do right. It helps immensely to have a "mentor", someone who is familiar not only with the breeds, but the lines your dog belongs to -- advice from such a knowledgeable person is often extremely valuable.
If we knew everything about genetics, we wouldn't have problems with our dogs any more. We'd eliminate Hip Dysplasia, PRA, heart problems, thyroid problems, seizures, etc. within a few generations if we knew everything. Unfortunately it's an art that few people are actually very good at.
(From WRO Newsletter, As Reprinted in the CRC Newsletter)
Considering adding another dog to your home? Adding a new puppy or dog to a household where dogs and cats already reside takes time and effort to be successful. Jo Ann Eurell, DVM University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine, Urbana Illinois, has a special interest in animal behavior and she offers a few suggestions to make the transition a safe and smooth one.
First, assess your household's current pet status before you add another animal to the mix. If you have an aggressive dog, the nature of the aggression must be identified and managed. Consider the physical condition of your current animals. For example, an older arthritic dog may be less tolerant of a puppy's boisterous behavior.
Ensure that proper facilities are in place to accommodate a new animal, such as a separate pen or room, or better yet, a crate. Food bowls and toys can also pose problems. Puppies are used to sharing food with their litter mates but an older dog may not appreciate this. Feed the animals separate bowls in separate areas. Dr. Eurell notes that sharing the same water bowl is usually not a problem. Until the animals learn to share don't let the new puppy play with the older dog's toys. Have a toy on hand just for the new puppy.
To ensure that your household pets stay healthy it is important to have the new puppy examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible. (Depending on the breed, a puppy should be 8 to 12 weeks old before it is removed from its mother and litter mates). Some owners head straight to their veterinarian after picking up a puppy from a breeder or humane society. A veterinarian can examine the animal and reduce the threat of disease transmission to existing pets, notes Dr. Eurell.
Take the initial introduction slow. "Allowing the new puppy to bound out of the car and into the dog's yard is a big mistake," Eurell says. "All dogs should be on leashes in case things get out of hand .... You are in control." The introduction phase can take hours, days, weeks or even months depending on the situation. In multiple-dog households, introduce the puppy to one dog at a time. "The dogs need a chance to establish the pack's dominance hierarchy," says Eurell. "Usually the oldest or largest animal will reign as the 'top dog' of this hierarchy."
The most common mistake owners make is to leave a new puppy alone with the established pet or pets, "Never leave a new puppy alone with these pets during the get-acquainted stage," says Dr. Eurell, "especially if the established dogs are older. "Puppies don't understand the pecking order and they haven't learned the necessary submissive skills. The older dog may give signals of dominance but the puppy doesn't know how to read them. This situation often results in injury with the older dog biting or pinning down the younger animal."
The puppy needs to be of comparable size before it should be left alone with the pack," It's up to the owner to decide when that time is right. "Older dogs recognize the puppy as an infant. They will discipline the youngster until they can't take it anymore. That's when the tolerance level drops and aggression escalates." says Dr. Eurell.
It's important to provide equal attention to both the new and established pets. This includes one-on-one time, appropriate exercise and play time, and lots of love. If it appears that the new animal is getting all the attention, the older dog may become jealous and redirect its jealousy aggression toward the puppy and cause injury. "Animals are very intuitive. You may notice that the dog will put its body between you and the new puppy or try to ‘steal' your attention from the puppy.
Introducing the puppy to a cat household should be done just as cautiously. The same rules apply. Supervise the interaction and closely observe the cat's body language. Much of the acceptance will depend on the cat's previous experiences with dogs.
The introduction of an adopted dog to an adult cat needs to be on the cat's terms. Again, be ready for problems. Most cats are easily stressed by the presence of a dog. They may tolerate the behavior for a short while, then exit.
Unhappy cats may show their disapproval with abnormal behavior such as urinating in places other than the litter box.
For the most part, dogs and cats adjust to new pets without incident. However, since the consequences of a problem can be severe, it is wise to assume that a dog or cat could react adversely and take proper precautions.
Dr.
Eurell recommends reading How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With, by Clarice
Rutherford and David Neil; or Second-Hand Dog; How To Turn Yours Into A
First-Rate Pet by Carol Lea Benjamin.
Ed note: I've had dogs that have dug holes (and thoroughly enjoyed it!). Sometimes to just dig, possibly eating the dirt in the process, and others have taken a treasure, like a beef bone and found the best spot to bury it. Generally, I don't think dogs will obsessively dig unless they're after a critter underneath the ground or possibly just suffering from boredom. If you just can't seem to stop your dirt diggers, here are a few suggestions (taken from the WWW) on ways to end the backyard “path to China".
The Whole Hole. There are dogs that dig one hole and just keep re-digging it and there are those that dig many holes. If there is more than one hole, fill them with the same dirt, packing it down tightly with a shovel, but do not put dirt in his favorite. Fill it with water and keep filling it at every opportunity. Most dogs do not like that and get discouraged. They do not like getting their feet wet.
Between a Rock and a Hard Place. Place a large rock in your dog's favorite hole. Pack it loosely with dirt. (All other holes should be filled in and packed tightly with a shovel.) When he begins digging again the rock will have a built-in correction waiting for his paws and will discourage him. A variation of this technique is to place chicken wire, gravel, crushed pebbles, or aluminum foil (or combinations of all four) in the hole instead of a rock. They are just as unpleasant for a dog to dig into. If the hole is wide enough you can place a metal or plastic lid from a garbage pail halfway down and cover it loosely with dirt. Hitting the hard surface and hearing the noise his paws make against it should discourage him.
Nasty Business. It is possible to discourage a dog from re-digging the same hole by placing his stool in it and filling the rest of the hole with dirt. He will not like it.
The Corrective Squirt. An effective method of correcting a dog when he digs holes is to catch him in the act and squirt him with a garden hose. He must be taken by surprise or the correction will be unsuccessful. Dig a narrow, shallow trench from the edge of your dog's favorite hole to a water faucet that is out of sight. The trench does not have to be longer than six feet. The point is to hide the presence of the hose in the hole. Place the nozzle of a garden hose in the side of the hole four or five inches down and point it upward. The dog must not see the nozzle or any part of the hose close to the hole. Lay the rest of the hose in the trench. Cover the trench with dirt. The dog must not be able to see the water faucet. Bait the hole by placing food inside. Cover the food with a thin layer of dirt. Allow the dog access and leave. Station yourself at the water faucet. Turn the water on the instant he begins digging and let him have a full squirt. Go to him quickly and shout, "NO! NO! NO!" Once he has been corrected, praise him as a matter of reassurance. If you cannot see the dog from the faucet, have someone watch from a window and give you a quiet signal. Repeat as often as necessary.
Bad Taste. Place
newspaper at the bottom of the hole. Generously sprinkle alum, cayenne pepper,
and Tabasco sauce all over the paper. When the dog returns to continue digging,
he is bound to taste or whiff the three unpleasant substances. He may get them
on his paws and lick them. The taste or scent should deter him from continuing
his project.
Love that new puppy, but don't love what she is doing to your sofa, sneakers, or fingers? Then it's time to intervene. While nipping and chewing are natural behaviors that occur when a puppy is between two and six moths of age, they can be stopped!
"Puppies will teethe, just like human infants," says Cindy Sherman, PhD, teacher of puppy training classes in Ithaca, New York. "Chewing and nipping is investigative behavior. It is how they learn about their world...and it is completely normal." But it is important, stresses Sherman, to direct the puppy to chewing appropriate items.
Look for specially designed pet toys. Rubber toys that have an opening for food, such as Kong®, can keep a puppy happily occupied for a long time.
Beware of items that may hide a choking danger. Don't offer your pup anything with a squeaker that can be ripped our and swallowed.
Examine toys regularly for tears, breakage, or stuffing leaks.
Rotate toys. Puppies love novelty. Different items will help make playtime special.
"As you would with a baby, supervise your puppy at all times," says Sherman. "If you can't be with your dog, protect her in an exercise pen or crate. Puppy-proof your home."
Put away items that you don't want chewed or that could be harmful.
Install a safety lock on the cabinet under the kitchen sink.
Keep human snacks and candy out of reach. Remember: Chocolate is toxic to dogs.
When it's more than play
Puppy biting and chewing are generally not aggressive. "However, it is important to be aware that some puppies can be aggressive," says Sherman. "If you have a puppy that seems deadly serious or is snarly or if you are afraid of the puppy, it is important to learn the reason. Videotape that behavior to view with a professional. If you are concerned about it, there may be a reason to be concerned."
Sherman recommends, "Puppies should remain with their litter until seven or eight weeks of age to learn how to communicate with other dogs. When they rough and tumble, they learn that they will have fun if they bite gently.
Reinforce positive play
To teach the puppy appropriate play behavior, "hard biting should elicit a painful shriek from a human companion, sending the message that this behavior is unacceptable. Stop interacting with the puppy. Get up and walk away, ignoring the puppy for a few minutes. You have removed the rewards (you and playing), and you are teaching bite inhibition." This is best done between two and four months of age. "Gradually decrease the pressure of the bite you permit and add a cue before yelping to teach a signal to the dog." Sherman also suggests that a puppy can learn to have a "time out" if you ignore him or place him in a crate.
"The only biting you should ignore is soft biting on bare hands. If this occurs, keep your hands very quiet and still and then redirect the puppy to other appropriate objects."
Other biting, such as the lure of a pants leg or shoelace, can be handled by distractions such as throwing a toy or a simple clap. "Don't engage the dog verbally. IT reinforces the negative behavior." says Sherman. "Reinforce only the positive behavior."
It is important to
remember that as much fun as a new puppy may be, children and puppies should
NEVER be left together unsupervised. Work with children to teach them how to
teach the dog to play correctly. Hide-and-seek is a terrific beginning. It
introduces the concepts of the "come" command. Teach children not to
roughhouse or wrestle. Like a human baby, puppies get overtired and over
stimulated. They need time to rest and calm down. Sherman quotes the well-known
British behaviorist John Rogerson, who says, "Control the game, control the
dog."
by Margaret Muns, D.V.M.
The following is paraphrased from a lecture by Dr. Victoria Voith a prominent behavioral specialist. (1995 Michigan Veterinary Conference, Lansing, MI Jan. 26-29, 1995).
About 1/3 of dogs presented to behavioral specialists are presented because of separation anxiety. The signs an animal may show when separated from the owner include vocalization, destruction of property, elimination, loss of appetite, excessive grooming, more intense greetings, hyperactivity, and depression. These signs can be extremely time and location specific.
The typical history of separation anxiety is that the problem occurs as the owner leaves or shortly afterwards. The key to diagnosis is that the behavior only occurs during the absence of the owner. This doesn't necessarily mean physical absence. All it can take is some kind of denial of access to the owner. A closed door may be all it takes. The difference between separation anxiety and a housebreaking problem is that with housebreaking problems, the dog will eliminate even when it has access to the owner.
Dogs with separation anxiety may exhibit pre-departure anxiety, Their anxiety level rises as the owner prepares to leave and then escalates in intensity after departure. The anxiety and resulting behavioral problems may persist for many hours after the owner departs. These dogs usually have a history of being abandoned during some time in their lives. They are dogs that either came from the shelter or dogs that are constantly in contact with people. The trauma of going to a shelter will predispose dogs to becoming over attached to humans.
Using a crate doesn't do much to stop the anxiety. In fact, crates are usually contradicted in cases of separation anxiety. All the crate does is condense the problem into one small location. Also, the crate keeps the house clean in cases where elimination occurs. However, the crate can be dangerous to these dogs. Many dogs will become so frantic that they will injure themselves in the crate.
The mainstay of treatment for separation anxiety is behavior modification. Some dogs can be helped by simply taking them with the owner at all times. However, this usually is impractical. Getting another dog to keep the first dog company usually is not a good idea. Only 50% of the dogs will be helped by companionship. Also, getting more dogs only puts more stress on the owner.
Behavioral modification consists of doing practice departures and changing the circumstances surrounding the departures. Owners must carefully identify all the circumstances surrounding their normal departures and do something to change them. Doing so changes the significance of the event and decreases anxiety. It also gives a dog clues that what is about to happen is a short departure and not frightening. For example, owners could turn the TV or radio on. The lecture described a case in which the dog was fine when the owner left the apartment to do the laundry. Consequently, the owner was told to pretend that this was going to happen every time she did her practice departures. The laundry basket and wash soap was the cue to the dog that nothing frightening was happening. Turning on the dishwasher can also be used.
Once owners have figured out what departures the dog will tolerate, you begin with your practice schedule. Start with leaving for less time then it takes the dog to become anxious. Owners may have to leave a tape recorder running when they leave to record what happens so they can time the length of their first practice departures. Once the owners have determined that length of time, they should setup their cues and leave without any fuss. When the time is up, the owners should enter the home nonchalantly. Avoid exuberant greetings and any rewards. Such greetings will result in the dog learning to expect them and will increase the anxiety level. Over time, owners need to gradually increase the time the dog is left alone until the animal can tolerate being left alone for a couple of hours. Once the dog is able to remain calm and relaxed for a couple of hours, it should be alright for the day. Departures should be practiced at different times of the day and on weekends so that the dog does not learn to anticipate what is going on.
After long departures, it is alright to reward the dog with an exuberant greeting and a reward. After several months of successful long departures, owners can gradually phase out the cue.
Drug therapy can help dogs with severe separation anxiety become more
receptive to behavioral modification. They also help if owners can't do the
repeated departure training for a long time because of their schedule. The drug
of choice to help with separation anxiety therapy is Elavil. The drug is not
approved for use in dogs. As with all behavioral medications, it should be begun
on the weekend so that the dog can be carefully observed for side effects.
Separation anxiety usually requires much patience and hard work on the part of
the owners. The poorest prognosis for correction occurs in cases where the
owners work very long hours and are gone on the weekends. Dogs owned by people
who travel extensively also have a poorer prognosis. Canines are naturally
extremely social animals who thrive on company. So it is not surprising that
separation anxiety is so widely seen.
"So you want to use your Dog At Stud?" From the Literary Spot, the newsletter of the Central MD Dalmation Club 12/89 via Retriever Believer, the newsletter of the Labrador Retriever Club of Southern California 8/91.
Tucker, Kathy. "Why are you Breeding?", printed in various newsletters.
Whitney, Leon E (DVM). How to Breed Dogs 384 pg. Many case studies on breeds, breed crosses for dominance studies, Myths and fallacies about breeding dogs, inheritance of traits (such as temperament, health, intelligence, and abilities).
Wilcox, Bonnie (DVM). "Things to Think about Before Breeding Your Dog." DVM, printed in various newsletters.
Willis, Malcolm B. Practical Genetics for Dog Breeders. Howell, 1992. 228 pgs with appendix for calculations -- several graphs, charts, and pictures.
Willis,
Malcolm B. Genetics of the Dog. 417 pgs with breed specific information
on many breeds -- plus several charts and graphs.
Revised: October 16, 2007
.