ALL ABOUT ROTTWEILER


Table of Contents

  1. Is the Rottweiler the right dog for me?
  2. So you want to buy a Rottweiler?
  3. Breed History- ROTTWEILER
  4. Health Problems
  5. What is the difference between the GERMAN and USA Rotts?
  6. PRCI Breed Standard

Is the Rottweiler the right dog for me?

by David the Dogman
David Klein FDTCB. F.inst D. Canine Behaviourist

The Rottweiler is the current "fad" guard/macho dog of the moment. For four years running, it has been the second most-popular American Kennel Club registered breed. The Rottweiler is a large, powerful dog and along with ownership comes much responsibility. Rottweilers require extensive socialisation from an early age.

Because of their size and strength, obedience training for your Rottweiler is a must. Weekly group classes for 6 to 12 months is generally considered a minimum. Rottweilers are "people" dogs. Left alone or with inadequate exercise for long periods they may become unruly and destructive.

How are they with children?

A properly bred Rottweiler who receives adequate socialisation and training will generally get along fine with children, but tolerance will vary from dog to dog. He must be taught early on what is acceptable behaviour and what is not, as should the child. Because of their large size and inherent desire to "herd", Rottweilers should always be supervised around children. A minor "bump" can cause serious injury to a small child.

Some Rottweilers have a high degree of "prey" drive (the instinct to chase moving objects), therefore should never be left alone with children, who naturally will want to run and play. I recommend waiting until children are at least school age before introducing a Rottweiler into the home. The amount of space in your home, the age of your children and the amount of time the dog will be in contact with the children should be seriously be considered.

Are they vicious?

A properly bred, socialised and trained Rottweiler is not inherently vicious. The rapid rise in popularity of the breed has attracted many irresponsible breeders who are only interested in making a profit, and don't care what damage is done to the breed in the process. Most are placed with the wrong type of owner and home.

Are they good with other pets?

Problems should be minimal when a Rottweiler is raised from puppyhood with other pets. They are highly intelligent, trainable, and with correct introduction, should be able to learn to co-exist peacefully with any pet you wish to introduce.

What kind of training do they require?

The Rottweiler has been developed for its working ability and often blooms when given a chance to work with its master, although there are occasional exceptions. It is very necessary to establish your control of the animal and obedience training is often the easiest and most rewarding way to do so.

Rottweilers can often be controlled using verbal reprimands alone, and while they occasionally require strong physical corrections, some trainers tend to be much rougher on Rottweilers than is necessary. Women have been very successful with the dogs in obedience training. Physical mastery of the dog is generally less important than sensitive, patient and positive training methods. Patience is an important factor in training a Rottweiler.

What about discipline?

The Rottweiler is a sensitive, intelligent and loyal animal, usually wanting to please its owner. Occasionally, it can be quite stubborn though, and requires more attention. A harsh word will often suffice, although sharper corrections are sometimes necessary. Ownership isn't for the timid or very busy person who cannot or is not inclined towards careful supervision of his/her pet.

Do they require much exercise?

The Rottweiler is a working breed. He is generally not happy sitting around doing nothing all day. A large garden with a six-foot high fence is essential. If you don't have the space, consider a smaller or less active breed. Adequate exercise is necessary to maintain the good health of your Rottweiler, as they have a tendency to gain weight without proper exercise.

Do they shed?

The Rottweiler is a double-coated breed, with a medium length outer coat and a soft downy undercoat. They do shed their undercoats twice a year, in spring and winter.

Are they noisy?

Rottweilers will bark to announce the arrival of people on the property, they generally don't bark without reason.

Which sex makes the best pet?

Opinions vary on this topic. I recommend a female, especially for first-time owners. Females are about 30% smaller and easier to control, somewhat less dominant and usually more affectionate. Males are stronger, more powerful and dominant, and therefore somewhat harder to train and control.

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

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So you want to buy a Rottweiler?

Interested in buying a Rottweiler? You must be or you wouldn't be reading this.  You've already heard how wonderful Rottweilers are. Well, I think you should also hear, before it's too late, that Rottweilers ARE NOT THE PERFECT BREED FOR EVERYONE. As a breed they have a few features that some people find charming, but that some people find mildly unpleasant and some people find downright intolerable. 

There are different breeds for different needs. There are over 200 purebred breeds of dogs in the world. Each breed was created with some specific purposes in mind. There are lap dogs, hound dogs, herding dogs, hunting dogs, and many varied combinations of these and other functions. Before you decide on one specific breed, investigate it's history, temperament, and uses to make sure that they mesh well with your own lifestyle. Just because a breed is currently popular does not mean it's the right one for you, and the choice of a dog should be made with the intention of caring for that dog throughout it's lifetime. 


DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU ARE ATTRACTED TO THE BREED *CHIEFLY* BECAUSE OF IT'S REPUTATION AS A PROTECTIVE DOG. 

While a Rottweiler is a large, impressive breed, true protection is only obtained through a lifetime of training. Even if you do not choose to train in protection, a Rottweiler requires many hours of obedience training and socialization, and can be expected at some point in his/her life to challenge it's owner. Some Rottweilers are also slow to bark, coming into their voice at two to three years of age - do not expect your Rottweiler puppy to instinctively warn you of an approaching stranger. There are many other breeds whose "watch dog" capabilities far exceed that of the Rottweiler. If all you are seeking is a dog that will bark at strangers approaching your home, you may want to look at the Labrador, the Standard Poodle, or some terrier breeds. 


DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU ARE UNWILLING TO SHARE YOUR HOUSE AND YOUR LIFE WITH YOUR DOG. 

Rottweilers were bred to share in many aspects of a family's daily life, as protective guardians, willing workers, and happy playmates. They thrive on companionship and they want to be wherever you are. They are happiest living with you in your house and going with you when you go out. While they usually tolerate being kenneled for periods of time, or crated inside the house by themselves, they need human contact and socialization in order to remain well-rounded. A Rottweiler who does not receive adequate socialization and attention is likely to grow up to be unsociable (fearful and/or unprovokedly aggressive), unruly, and unhappy. He may well develop pastimes, such as digging or barking, that will displease you and/or your neighbors. An adult so exiled will be miserable too. If you don't strongly prefer to have your dog's companionship as much as possible, enjoy having him sleep in your bedroom at night and sharing many of your activities by day, you should choose a breed less oriented to human companionship. Likewise, if your job or other obligations prevent you from spending much time with your dog. No dog is really happy without companionship but the pack hounds are more tolerant of being kenneled or yarded so long as it is in groups of 2 or more. A better choice would be a cat, as they are solitary by nature. 



DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU DON'T INTEND TO EDUCATE (TRAIN) YOUR DOG.

 Basic obedience and household rules training is NOT optional for the Rottweiler. As an absolute minimum, you must teach him to reliably respond to commands to come, to lie down, to stay, and to walk at your side, on or off leash and regardless of temptations. You must also teach him to respect your household rules: e.g. is he allowed to get on the furniture? is he allowed to beg at the table? What you allow or forbid is unimportant; but it is *critical* that you, not the dog, make these choices and that you enforce your rules consistently. You must commit yourself to attending an 8 to 10 week series of weekly lessons at a local obedience club or professional trainer and to doing one or two short (5 to 20 minutes) homework sessions per day. As commands are learned, they must be integrated into your daily life by being used whenever appropriate and enforced consistently. Young Rottweiler puppies are relatively easy to train: they are eager to please, intelligent, and calm-natured, with a relatively good attention span. Once a Rottweiler has learned something, he tends to retain it well. Your cute, sweet little Rottweiler puppy will grow up to be a large, powerful dog with a highly self-assertive personality, and the determination to finish whatever he starts. If he has grown up respecting you and your rules, then all his physical and mental strength will work for you. But if he has grown up without rules and guidance from you, surely he will make his own rules and his physical and mental powers will often act in opposition to your needs and desires.  For example: he may tow you down the street as if competing in a sled-dog race; he may grab food off the table; he may forbid your guests entry to his home. This training cannot be delegated to someone else, e.g. by sending the dog away to "boarding school", because the relationship of respect and obedience is personal between the dog and the individual who does the training. This is true of all dogs to a greater or lesser degree, but definitely to a very great degree in Rottweilers. While you definitely may want the help of an experienced trainer to teach you how to train your dog, you yourself must actually train your Rottweiler. As each lesson is well learned, then the rest of the household (except very young children) must also work with the dog, insisting he obey them as well. 

Many of the Rottweilers that are rescued from Pounds and Shelters show clearly that they have received little or no basic training, neither in obedience nor in household deportment; yet these same dogs respond well to such training by the rescuer or the adopter. It seems likely that a failure to train the dog is a significant cause of Rottweiler abandonment . 

If you don't intend to educate your dog, preferably during puppyhood, you would be better off with a breed that is both small and socially submissive, e.g. a Shetland Sheepdog. Such a dog does require training, but a little bit goes further than with a Rott. In the opposite direction, if your goals in obedience training are oriented towards success at high level competition (HIT, OTCh, and Gaines), please realize that while some Rottweilers can and do accomplish these goals, they are few and far between. The Rott is not among the half dozen breeds best suited to such highly polished performance. 


DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU LACK LEADERSHIP (SELF-ASSERTIVE) PERSONALITY. 

Dogs do not believe in social equality. They live in a social hierarchy led by a pack-leader (Alpha). The alpha dog is generally benevolent, affectionate, and non-bullying towards his subordinates; but there is never any doubt in his mind or in theirs that the alpha is the boss and makes the rules. Whatever the breed, if you do not assume the leadership, the dog will do so sooner or later and with more or less unpleasant consequences for the abdicating owner. Like the untrained dog, the pack-leader dog makes his own rules and enforces them against other members of the household by means of a dominant physical posture and a hard-eyed stare, followed by a snarl, then a knockdown blow or a bite. Breeds differ in tendencies towards social dominance; and individuals within a breed differ considerably. Rottweilers as a breed tend to be of a socially dominant personality. You really cannot afford to let a Rottweiler become your boss. You do not have to have the personality or mannerisms of a Marine boot camp Sergeant, but you do have to have the calm, quiet self-assurance and self-assertion of the successful parent ("Because I'm your mother, that's why.") or successful grade-school teacher. If you think you might have difficulty asserting yourself calmly and confidently to exercise leadership, then choose a breed known for its socially subordinate disposition, such as a Golden Retriever or a Shetland Sheepdog, and be sure to ask the breeder to select one of the more submissive pups in the litter for you. 

Leadership and training are inextricably intertwined: leadership personality enables you to train your dog, and being trained by you reinforces your dog's perception of you as the alpha. 

DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU DON'T VALUE CONSTANT COMPANIONSHIP AND SOMETIMES PHYSICAL AFFECTION . 

A Rottweiler becomes deeply attached and devoted to his own family, and will show this affection in a variety of ways. Some Rottweilers are noticeably reserved, however most are more outgoing, and a few may be exuberantly demonstrative of their affections. They like to be near you, usually in the same room, an almost always with a head or paw in your lap. They will follow you from room to room, and if you are standing still, will lean against your leg. They have been known to upend morning coffee cups by deciding that it's time your hand touched their heads. They are emotionally sensitive to their favorite people: when you are joyful, proud, angry, or grief-stricken, your Rott will immediately perceive it and may respond to your mood. As puppies, of course, they will be more dependent, clownish, and given to testing the limits of their surrounding. 

A number of breeds retain into adulthood a less puppyish and playful disposition, e.g. Sheepdogs, Mastiffs and others. Quite a few are far more dramatically demonstrative and/or more clingingly dependent, e.g. the Golden Retriever. 


DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU ARE FASTIDIOUS ABOUT THE NEATNESS OF YOUR HOME. 

The Rottweiler's short coarse coat and undercoat do shed . Generally shedding is confined to once or twice per year, but Rottweiler females may "blow coat" during their heat cycles, and some Rotties shed more than others. I don't mean to imply that you must be a slob or slattern to live happily with a Rott, but you do have to have the attitude that your dog's company means more to you than does neatness and you do have to be comfortable with a less than immaculate house. 

While all dogs, like all children, create a greater or lesser degree of household mess, many other breeds of dog are less troublesome than the Rottweiler in this respect. The Basenji is perhaps the cleanest, due to its cat-like habits. 


DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU DISLIKE DAILY PHYSICAL EXERCISE. 

Rottweilers need exercise to maintain the health of heart and lungs, and to maintain muscle tone. Because of his mellow, laid-back, often lazy, disposition, your Rottweiler will not give himself enough exercise unless you accompany him or play with him. An adult Rottweiler should have a morning outing of a mile or more, as you walk briskly, jog, or bicycle beside him, and a similar evening outing. For puppies, shorter and slower walks, several times a day are preferred for exercise and housebreaking. 

All dogs need daily exercise of greater or lesser length and vigor. If providing this exercise is beyond you, physically or temperamentally, then choose one of the many small and energetic breeds that can exercise itself within your fenced yard. Most of the Toys and Terriers fit this description, but don't be surprised if a Terrier is inclined to dig in the earth since digging out critters is the job that they were bred to do. 



DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU BELIEVE THAT DOGS SHOULD RUN "FREE".

Whether you live in town or country, no dog can safely be left to run "free" outside your fenced property and without your direct supervision and control. The price of such "freedom" is inevitably injury or death: from dogfights, from automobiles, from the pound or from justifiably irate neighbors. Even though Rotts are home-loving and less inclined to roam than most breeds, an unfenced Rott is destined for disaster. Like other breeds developed for livestock herding, most Rotts have inherited a substantial amount of "herding instinct", which is a strengthened and slightly modified instinct to chase and capture suitable large prey. The unfenced country-living Rott will sooner or later discover the neighbor's livestock (sheep, cattle, horses, poultry) and respond to his genetic urge to chase and harass such stock. State law almost always gives the livestock owner the legal right to kill any dog chasing or "worrying" his stock, and almost all livestock owners are quick to act on this! The unfenced city Rott is likely to exercise his inherited herding instinct on joggers, bicyclists, and automobiles. A thoroughly obedience-trained Rottweiler can enjoy the limited and supervised freedom of off-leash walks with you in appropriately chosen environments. 

If you don't want the responsibility of confining and supervising your pet, then no breed of dog is suitable for you.  A neutered cat will survive such irresponsibly given "freedom" somewhat longer than a dog, but will eventually come to grief. 


READ THIS PARAGRAPH TWICE! 

DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU CAN'T AFFORD TO BUY, FEED, AND PROVIDE HEALTHCARE FOR ONE. 

Rottweilers are not a cheap breed to buy, as running a careful breeding program with due regard for temperament, trainability, and physical soundness (hips especially) cannot be done cheaply. The time the breeder should put into each puppy's "pre-school" and socialization is also costly. The "bargain" puppy from a "back-yard breeder" who unselectively mates any two Rotts who happen to be of opposite sex may well prove to be extremely costly in terms of bad temperament, bad health, and lack of essential socialization. In contrast, the occasional adult or older pup is available at modest price from a disenchanted owner or from a breeder, shelter, or rescuer to whom the dog was abandoned; most of these "used" Rottweilers, after evaluation by an experienced handler and vet check, are capable of becoming a marvelous dog for you if you can provide training, leadership, and understanding. Whatever the initial cost of your Rottweiler, the upkeep will not be cheap. Being large dogs, Rotts eat relatively large meals. (Need I add that what goes in one end must eventually come out the other?) Large dogs tend to have larger veterinary bills, as the amount of anesthesia and of most medications is proportional to body weight. Spaying or neutering, which costs more for larger dogs, is an essential expense for virtually all pet Rottweilers, as it "takes the worry out of being close", prevents serious health problems in later life, and makes the dog a more pleasant companion. 

Rottweilers are subject to quite a few genetically derived health disorders, however, two conditions in particular are extremely prevalent and can be costly to treat: hip dysplasia and parvovirus. Your best insurance against dysplasia is to buy only from a litter bred from OFA or foreign hip certified parents and [if possible], grandparents. Yes, this generally means paying more. While suceptibility to parvovirus may have a genetic predisposition, there are no predictive tests allowing selective breeding against it. Your best prevention is to follow the vaccination schedule recommended by your breeder in concordance with their veterinarian. As far as other genetically dreived health disorders, such as entropian, elbow dysplsia, cataracts, von Willebrand's disease (a bleeding disorder), and heart disorders, ALWAYS buy from a breeder who gives you a written contract guaranteeing against these disorders. Finally, the modest fee for participation in a series of basic obedience training classes is an essential investment in harmonious living with your dog; such fees are the same for all breeds, though conceivably you will need to travel a bit further from home to find a training class teacher who is competent with the more formidable breeds, such as Rottweiler. The modest annual outlays for immunizations and for local licensing are generally the same for all breeds, though some counties have a lower license fee for spayed/neutered dogs. 

All dogs, of whatever breed and however cheaply acquired, require significant upkeep costs, and all are subject to highly expensive veterinary emergencies. Likewise all cats. 


DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU WANT THE "LATEST, GREATEST FEROCIOUS KILLER ATTACK DOG". 

Although the Rottweiler's capability as a personal protection dog and as a police dog have been justifiably well publicized, and occasionally dramatically over-stated, the Rottweiler is not any more capable in these respects than are half a dozen other protection breeds. Nor are all Rottweilers equally capable: some are highly so and some moderately so, but many have insufficient natural capacity for such work. Due to his laid-back disposition, the Rottweiler is, if anything, a bit slower to respond aggressively to a threat than are most other protection breeds. For the same reason, however, the Rottie is perhaps somewhat more amenable to control by the handler and somewhat more willing to follow commands to refrain from biting or to stop biting when told to do so. Whatever the breed, before the dog can be safely protection trained, he must have great respect for the leadership of his handler and must be solidly trained in basic obedience to that handler. Equally essential, he must have a rock-solidly stable temperament and he must also have been "socialized" out in the world enough to know that most people are friendly and harmless, so that he can later learn to distinguish the bad guys from the good guys. Even with such a dog, safe protection training demands several hundred hours of dedicated work by the handler, much of it under the direct supervision of a profoundly expert trainer. Please don't buy any dog for protection training unless you are absolutely committed to the extreme amount of work that will be required of you personally. Also talk to your lawyer and your insurance agent first. 

In contrast to the protection-trained dog, trained to bite on direct command or in reaction to direct physical assault on his master, the "deterrent dog" dissuades the vast majority of aspiring burglars, rapists, and assailants by his presence, his appearance, and his demeanor. Seeing such dog, the potential wrong-doer simply decides to look for a safer victim elsewhere. For this job, all that is needed is a dog that is large and that appears to be well-trained and unafraid. The Rottweiler can serve this role admirably, with the added assets of generally dark color and "bestial" appearance adding to the impression of formidability and fearsomeness. If the dog has been taught to bark a few times on command, eg "Fang, watch him!" rather than "Fifi, speak for a cookie", this skill can be useful to augment the deterrent effect. 

Other breeds of dog which are equally suitable for protection or for deterrence include the Doberman, German Shepherd, Briard, Belgian Sheepdog, Bouvier des Flandres, Belgian Tervuren, and Belgian Malinois. Of these the first 2 are also recognized by the general public as "police dogs". The Malamute, though not suitable for protection, is quite effective for deterrence due to his highly wolf-like appearance. 



DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU WANT A TOTALLY UNAGGRESSIVE AND UNPROTECTIVE DOG. 

Most Rottweilers have an assertive and confident personality. When confronted with a threat, a proper Rottweiler will be somewhat more ready to fight than to flee. Thus he may respond aggressively in situations where many other breeds back down. Most Rottweilers have some inclination to act aggressively to repel intruders on their territory (i.e. your home) and to counter-act assaults upon their pack mates (you and your family). Without training and leadership from you to guide him, the dog cannot judge correctly whom to repel and whom to tolerate. Without training and leadership, sooner or later he may injure an innocent person who will successfully sue you for more than you own. With good training and leadership from you, he can be profoundly valuable as a defender of your home and family. (See also remarks on stability and socialization above.) 

If you feel no need of an assertive dog or if you have the slightest doubts of your ability and willingness to supply the essential socialization, training and leadership, then please choose one of the many breeds noted for thoroughly unaggressive temperament, such as a Sheltie or a Golden Retriever. 


READ THIS PARAGRAPH TWICE!! 

DON'T BUY A ROTTWEILER IF YOU ARE NOT WILLING TO COMMIT YOURSELF FOR THE DOG'S ENTIRE LIFETIME. 

No dog deserves to be cast out because his owners want to move to a no-pet apartment or because he is no longer a cute puppy or didn't grow up to be a beauty contest winner or because his owners through lack of leadership and training have allowed him to become an unruly juvenile delinquent, with a repertoire of undesirable behaviors. The prospects of a responsible and affectionate second home for a "used" dog are never very bright, but they are especially dim for a large, poorly mannered dog. A Rottweiler dumped into a Pound or Shelter has almost no chance of survival -- unless he has the great good fortune to be spotted by someone dedicated to Rottweiler Rescue. The prospects for adoption for a youngish, well-trained, and well-groomed Rottweiler whose owner seeks the assistance of the nearest Rottweiler Club or Rescue group are fairly good; but an older Rott has diminishing prospects. Be sure to contact your local Rottweiler club or Rescue group if you are diagnosed with a chronic illness or have other equally valid reason for seeking an adoptive home. Be sure to contact your local Rottweiler club if you are beginning to have difficulties in training your Rottweiler, so these can be resolved. Be sure to make arrangements in your will or with your family to ensure continued care or adoptive home for your Rottweiler if you should pre-decease him. 

The life span of a Rottweiler is from 9 to 12 years. If that seems too long a time for you to give an unequivocal loyalty to your Rottweiler, then please do not get one! Indeed, as most dogs have a life expectancy that is as long or longer, please do not get any dog! 

In Conclusion : 

If all the preceding "bad news" about Rottweilers hasn't turned you away from the breed, then by all means DO GET A Rottweiler! They are every bit as wonderful as you have heard! 

If buying a puppy, be sure to shop carefully for a *responsible* and *knowledgeable* breeder who places high priority on breeding for sound temperament and trainability and good health in all matings. Such a breeder will interrogate and educate potential buyers carefully. Such a breeder will continue to be available for advice and consultation for the rest of the puppy's life and will insist on receiving the dog back if ever you are unable to keep it . 

However, as an alternative to buying a Rottweiler puppy, you may want to give some serious consideration to adopting a rescued Rottweiler. Despite the responsibility of their previous owner, rescued Rottweilers who have been evaluated by experienced Rottweiler handlers/breeders and vet checked have proven to be readily rehabilitated so as to become superb family companions for responsible and affectionate adopters. Many rescuers are skilled trainers who evaluate temperament and provide remedial training before offering dogs for placement, and who offer continued advisory support afterwards. Contact local Rottweiler breeders, Rottweiler club members, the local humane society, or your local all breed kennel club to learn who is doing Rescue work.  
 

An Afterward: 

This article was originally written by Pam Green, a caring and involved Bouvier des Flandres owner, and has been adapted in order to assist in Rottweiler education by Liz Bauer in 1994 with assistance from Lucy Newton of Cornell University. 

Pam first wrote this article nearly 14 years ago. Since then it has become a classic of Bouvier literature, reprinted many times. Pam has spent nearly 8 years in Bouvier Rescue, personally rescuing, rehabilitating, and placing 3 or 4 per year and assisting in the placement of others. 

Liz has been involved with Rottweilers since the early 1980's, purchasing her first Rottweiler in 1991, and breeding her first solo litter in 1997. She became involved in Rottweiler Rescue in 1986, retired from active rescue in 1996 and currently assists with the evaluation and placement of over 50 Rottweilers per year in association with Joan Sweeney of Wisconsin Rottweiler Rescue. Liz can be contacted at harkon@inxpress.net 

Lucy has owned rottweilers since the early 1990's and is involved with Search and Rescue in the Ithaca, New York area. She can be reached at lan5@cornell.edu

Reference Trojan Rottweilers

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Breed History- ROTTWEILER

The history of the Rottweiler is not a documented record. There is the likelihood that the Rottweiler is descended from drover dogs indigenous to ancient Rome. These drover dogs were described as being of the Mastiff type, with great intelligence, rugged, dependable, willing to work and with a strong guarding instinct. The transition from Roman herding dog to the dog we know today can be attributed to the ambitious Roman Emperors wanting to conquer Europe. As very large armies were required for these expeditions, the logistics of feeding such a large number became a major factor. As there was no form of refrigeration, it meant that the meat accompanied the armies "on the hoof". This meant a dog capable of keeping the herd together during the long marches was needed. The "Mastiff type" was well suited to this task as well as shouldering the extra responsibility of guarding the supply dumps at night.

 

As sites of civilization arose along the legions' roads, so did various types of dogs. One such road led to an army encampment on the Meckar River in what became the state of Swabia in Southern Germany. It flourished as a trading center and was eventually called Rottweil (Rote Wil-"red tiled roofs"). Here, the breed became known as the Rottweiler. "Lore" has it that the butcher's of Rottweil depended on their dogs to herd cattle to market; then once the cattle were slaughtered, the dogs pulled the butcher's carts. When the meat was sold, the money purses were tied around the dogs' necks to keep the money safe from bandits. 

 

The Rottweiler was kept busy until the mid-19th century when railroads replaced droving for getting livestock to market and using dogs as draft animals was outlawed (due partially to abuses). As the Rottweiler's customary jobs were eliminated due to industrial progress, he fell on hard times. Thanks to the breeds' traits of endurance, strength, loyalty and intelligence, he found a new niche as a guard dog and the Rottweiler's talents were put to new uses with the police and military. It was toward suitability for those tasks that the modern Rottweiler was developed. In 1910 the Rottweiler was officially recognized by the German Police Dog Association as the fourth police dog breed. The period from 1882 to 1910 saw the breed go from obscurity to national acclaim. 

 

The large leap for Rottweilers is assumably due to some very hard work and skillful breeding by their owners and breeders. The Rottweiler was fortunate that the "dog fancier", a person who loved the breed for its own sake, had arrived on the scene. Dog breeding was no longer done solely for the purpose of producing a working animal. Breeders set out to preserve their chosen breed in the form in which it had been handed down to them, while at the same time they also set out to refine and improve it when they felt this was necessary. One of the milestones was being accepted as a working police dog. To have achieved this success, the comparatively nondescript and unknown dog of the late 1800's must have changed considerably. In 1905 the Rottweiler was selected as a "fine dog of unusual breed and irreproachable character" to be presented to the President of a dog show, organized by the Association of the Friends of Dogs in Heidelberg, Germany. We assume from this that the breed was recognized and settled, more or less, in its present form, though not well known. It is also reasonably safe to assume that the Rottweiler was already showing the exemplary character that we have grown to admire today.

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Health Problems

Hip Dysplasia

(Thank you to Leerburg for the xrays)

Hip Dysplasia (HD) is a developmental disease in which there is a malformation of the hip joint(s). It is a genetic disease, which may also be influenced by environmental factors. It is a common problem in most large breeds, and depending on severity, can cause serious pain and/or debilitation. HD is almost never detectable in animals younger than six months, and then in only the most severe cases. Two years is generally considered the minimum age for accurate diagnosis.

 

The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) maintains a Hip Dysplasia Registry, which functions as a diagnostic service and a registry of hip status for dogs of all breeds. X-rays are evaluated by three veterinary radiologists, and are assigned a hip status of Excellent, Good, Fair, Borderline, Mild Dysplasia, Moderate Dysplasia or Severe Dysplasia. Dogs receiving evaluations of Excellent, Good or Fair are assigned an OFA Breed Registry Number. Only dogs that are at least 24 months of age are eligible for an OFA Number.

 

In an effort to reduce the incidence of HD, responsible Rottweiler breeders will not breed dogs which have not received OFA clearance. Puppies should only be purchased after careful evaluation of the hip dysplasia status of the parents and the grandparents. The breeder of the puppies should be able to provide copies of the OFA certificates (on official stationery from the OFA). This is not a guarantee that your puppy will not develop HD later on; research has documented the fact that normal parents can produce litters with one third or more of the puppies dysplastic as adults. Genetics may be the cause of dysplasia but environmental factors such as over-feeding, over exercise and injury of young animals may also contribute to this
disease. 


Elbow Dysplasia

Like hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia is a hereditary disease. It is a malformation of the elbow joint(s). OFA certifies elbows on a pass/fail basis. As with hip dysplasia, your breeder should be able to show you reports from the OFA defining the conformation of both parent's elbows.

Osteochondrosis Dissecans (OCD)

OCD is a disease of bone formation that leads to lameness and arthritis. It results from a disturbance of the process by which cartilage is turned into bone during the growth process. Abnormally thickened cartilage forms in areas of the joints that are subject to stress and, hence, prone to damage. Cracks form, and the cartilage can tear, forming a flap. This flap may remain attached to the bone, or it may tear away and float freely in the joint. The cracks, flap or free cartilage piece lead to inflammation of the joint (arthritis), pain and lameness. More than one joint is often affected simultaneously. In dogs, a the most commonly affected joint is the shoulder, followed by the elbow, hock and knee.

Paneosteitis

Sometimes referred to as "growing pains" or "pano", panosteitis occurs as a rotating lameness, usually in puppies about four months of age. There are tests for pano which should be done to rule out more serious problems. Sometimes crate rest is all a puppy needs for complete recovery.

Von Willebrand's Disease (VWD)

VWD is a hereditary a bleeding disorder similar to hemophilia. Dogs affected with VWD may have symptoms ranging from prolonged bleeding of toenails cut short to hemorrhaging during minor surgical procedures. Dogs may be carriers while exhibiting no outward symptoms. VWD is diagnosed through blood screening.

Bloat

Bloat is a common condition in which the stomach swells from gas, fluid or both. Bloat becomes a medical emergency when the stomach distends and then flips over, causing torsion. Bloat and torsion may be caused by over-eating, drinking large amounts of water after eating, and/or vigorous exercise after a meal. Efforts to prevent bloat may include feeding several small meals a day, crating the dog for several hours after eating, and monitoring water intake.

Purdue Study On Bloat

http://www.vet.purdue.edu/epi/bloat.htm

Heart Diseases

The most common heart problem seen in Rottweilers is Sub-Aortic Stenosis. This disorder can be very mild or so serious that it results in sudden death. Reputable breeders, working with canine cardiologists, hope to identify the mode of inheritance of this and other heart problems.

Allergies

Some Rottweilers are prone to flea and/or food allergies. Symptoms and severity of the allergies vary from dog to dog.

Eye Diseases

Entropian (eyelids rolling inward) and Ectropian (Eyelids rolling outward) are inherited conditions which require surgical correction. Both of these conditions disqualify a dog from being shown in AKC conformation competition.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA), Central Progressive Retinal Atrophy (CPRA) and certain types of Cataracts are inherited conditions. Dogs used for breeding should be examined annually by a Board-certified Veterinary ophthalmologist, until at least eight years of age, as hereditary eye problems may not present themselves until later in life. Dogs examined by a Board-certified Veterinary Ophthalmologist and found to be free of hereditary eye disease may be registered annually with the Canine Eye Registry Foundation (CERF).

Epilepsy

Epilepsy may result from injury to the head or from bacterial infections of the brain. If no such cause is found, it is regarded to be congenital. Congenital epilepsy can be an inherited trait, and has been observed in many breeds. The term epilepsy refers to recurring episodic seizures/convulsions. The episodes can be triggered by fatigue, excitement, anxiety, noise or in females, by estrus. It may be controlled with medication. Obviously, breeding is not recommended.

Hypothyroidism

Hypothyroidism refers to insufficient output of the thyroid hormone by the thyroid gland. It may slow down the whole body functions; the dog may become lethargic, mentally slow, without much energy. Its coat may become dull, thin and fall out easily. In males it can lower the sperm count and reduce sexual activity. In females it may cause irregular heat cycles. The signs may develop very slowly, and the condition can be detected with a blood test. Usually, it is a permanent condition, and is treated with thyroid hormones. Hypothyroid is generally considered to be an inherited trait.

Cancer

Cancer is becoming a very common condition in the Rottweiler breed, with bone cancer being the most frequent type. Any suspicious lumps, moles, sores or unexplained lameness should be investigated by your veterinarian.

Fleas?  Try this recipe for a Natural Flea Spray!

Bring a quart of water just to a boil. Pour it over a fat sliced lemon and a tablespoon of crushed rosemary leaves. Let this sit overnight.  Strain and put in a spray bottle.  If you have a serious infestation, pour the whole batch in the tub as a rinse after a bath with a good herbal shampoo. Leave on and rub in for five minutes.

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What is the difference between the GERMAN Rottweilers and the USA Rottweilers?

By Steve Wolfson

While walking my Rottweiler Bronco, a gentleman approached the two of us and said, "Oh, he's very nice, he must be a German Rottweiler!" I replied, "How did you know that?" He then replied, "I can tell by the size  of his head. His head is much bigger than my Rottie's head. German Rottweilers have much bigger heads than the American ones." I told him that he was in error since Bronco was born and raised right here on Long Island, NY. He descends from German stock, but they all do. Looking still puzzled by my explanation he asked, "Then why all the Rottweilers I see have such small heads and potato stick legs?" That characterization made me laugh. I then replied, "More likely, the ones you are seeing result from a poorly planned breeding program using inferior breeding stock." He told me he had paid a great deal of money for his dog and was disappointed in the way it eventually turned out. I understood his disillusionment and further explained that spending a large sum of money (I was afraid to ask the exact price he paid) was not the correct criterion to procure a quality Rottweiler.

"The German Rottweilers are better", "The American Rottweilers have no bone substance, Are the American Rottweilers from the same breeding stock?" I am asked these questions continually, so I thought it would be a good idea to answer them, perhaps settling this colloquial notion. What is the difference between the German Rottweiler and the American Rottweiler?

There is only one Rottweiler; correct in type* and construction according to the standard. No doubt, untypical and poorly constructed specimens are everywhere. Often, I have encountered Rottweilers purchased as pets (even represented as a show dog) I would consider completely lacking breed type *, yet I know they are pure bred Rottweilers. Why the difference? Variations of size, shape, and head type etc, encountered in the breed happen for two reasons:

A Normal variance that occurs in the progeny when breeding Sire to Dam

B. Poor planning / Little Concern for the Rottweiler breed (some breedings take place with no motive at all, but for a monetary one).

A. Even when a litter is carefully planned, a percentage within the progeny is observed that varies in type and construction. This is normal. Not every pup in the litter will be uniform. This divergence is a matter of genetic inheritance which all competent and concerned breeders must deal with each time they decide to plan a litter.

When searching for a stud dog to utilize, the experienced breeder does their homework:

1. Researching the pedigrees of Sire and Dam.

2. Ascertaining whether the stud dog and brood bitch will compliment each other.

3 . What improvements can be realized in the upcoming litter?

4. What undesirable construction / type faults will possibly surface?

By doing homework, the concerned breeder reduces the occurrence of undesirable flaws and increases their chances of producing desirable traits and a uniformity in the litter. Predicting results and having goals are the hallmark of a concerned, experienced, responsible breeder.

B. Undesirable traits which many people not deeply involved with the Rottweiler question are the Doberman-like heads, lo ng bodies, thin, spindle- like bones, general poor construction. These traits are repeatedly observed when the Sire and Dam used in the breeding are not uniform in breed type*, poor planning (perhaps no planning at all) and little concern for the Rottweiler breed. A breeding of this sort, for all concerned, should not occur.

Those are reasons why great variations are seen in Rottweilers. Top quality specimens are produced by thoughtful, selective, hard working breeders. It does not matter what the country of origin is. Germany produces some of the finest Rottweilers. Also included in this list are all of Europe, Russia, Canada and certainly the US. Quality is where you find it; not exclusive to one particular place. Conversely, there are plenty of pin headed, potato, stick legged, grossly overweight, giant sized Rottweilers available here and outside the US.

However, there are differences when we compare breeding practices. Here are some highlights of the ADRK breeding procedures.

1. The ADRK has strict controls on which are bred.

2. The ADRK requires all dogs for breeding must pass a minimum qualification test called the Ztp (Zuchttauglichkeitprufung). I A dog cannot be coupled unless it has passed.

3. The ADRK standard does not allow any missing teeth.

4. Any dog/bitch which is over, or under the height range will not pass the Ztp.

5. All Rottweilers born after 1999 cannot have their tails docked. The practice of docking tails has been stopped.

Does this translate into breeding better dogs? One must make a comparative analysis of this and come to a final decision.

At the American Rottweiler Club national held in Orlando, Florida, March-2002, I observed some outstanding specimens. I would not be able to determine their country of origin merely by looking at them and would be happy to compete with these outstanding US Rottweilers in the Klub Sieger show in Germany.

Beware of sales pitches, unethical breeders, claims which cannot be documented. Read, learn, ask detailed questions, go to the shows, become a student of the breed. Do not be fooled by the "Grass is Greener" logic. By virtue of the dog's country of origin does not make it better. This is a premise based in mythology and snob appeal. 

*Breed type:

Breed type for the Rottweiler is the essence of characteristics* that distinguishes it from others. *Essence of characteristics:  One must carefully read the standard to discover and comprehend the essence of characteristics.

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PRCI Breed Standard

PRCI Breed Standard (F.C.I.-Standard Nr. 147 / 19.06.2000)
 
GENERAL APPEARANCE
 
The Rottweiler is a medium to large size, stalwart dog, neither heavy nor light and neither leggy nor weedy. His correctly proportioned, compact and powerful build leads to the conclusion of great strength, agility and endurance.
 
IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS
 
The length of the body, measured from the sternum (breast-bone) to the ischiatic tuberosity should not exceed the height at the withers by, at most, 15%.
 
BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT
 
Good natured, placid in basic disposition and fond of children, very devoted, obedient, biddable and eager to work. His appearance is natural and rustic, his behaviour self assured, steady and fearless. He reacts to his surroundings with great alertness.
 
HEAD:
 
CRANIAL REGION:
 
Skull: Of medium length, broad between the ears. Forehead line moderately arched as seen from the side. Occipital bone well developed without being conspicious. Stop: Well defined.
 
FACIAL REGION
 
Nose: Nose well developed, more broad than round with relatively large nostrils,always black.
 
Muzzle: The foreface should appear neither elongated nor shortened in relation to the cranial region. Straight nasal bridge, broad at base, moderately tapered.
 
Lips: Black, close fitting, corner of the mouth not visible, gum as dark as possible.
 
Jaws / Teeth: Upper and lower jaw strong and broad. Strong complete dentition (42 teeth) with scissor bite, the upper incisors closely overlapping the lower incisors.
 
Cheeks: Zygomatic arches pronounced.
 
Eyes: Of medium size, almond shaped, dark brown in colour. Eyelids close fitting.
 
Ears: Medium-sized, pendant, triangular, wide apart, set on high. With the ears laid forward close to the head the skull appears to be broadened.
 
NECK Strong, of fair length, well muscled, slightly arched, free from throatiness, without dewlap.
 
BODY
 
Back: Straight, strong, firm.
 
Loins: Short, strong and deep.
 
Croup: Broad, of medium length, slightly rounded. Neither flat nor falling away.
 
Chest: Roomy, broad and deep (approximately 50 % of the shoulder height) with well developed forechest and well sprung ribs.
 
Belly: Flanks not tucked up.
 
TAIL: In natural condition, level in extension of the upper line; at ease may be hanging. PRCI Adopted Exception: Docked at the first or second joint within 7 days of birth or left in its natural state.  
 
LIMBS
 
FOREQUARTERS: Seen from the front, the front legs are straight and not placed too closely to each other. The forearm, seen from the side, stands straight. The slope
of the shoulder blade is about 45 degrees to the horizontal.
 
Shoulders: Well laid back.
 
Upper arm: Close fitting to the body.
 
Forearm: Strongly developed and muscular.
 
Pasterns: Slightly springy, strong, not steep.
 
Front feet: Round, tight and well arched; pads hard; nails short, black and strong.
 
HINDQUARTERS: Seen from behind, legs straight and not too close together. When standing free, obtuse angles are formed between the dog’s upper thigh and the hip bone, the upper thigh and the lower thigh and the metatarsal.
 
Upper thigh: Moderately long, broad and strongly muscled.
 
Lower thigh: Long, strongly and broadly muscled at top, sinewy.
 
Hocks: Sturdy well angulated hocks; not steep.
 
Hindfeet: Slightly longer than the front feet. Toes strong, arched, as tight as front feet.
 
GAIT The Rottweiler is a trotting dog. In movement the back remains firm and relatively stable. Movement harmonious, steady, full of energy and unrestricted, with good stride.
 
SKIN
 
Skin on the head: Overall tight fitting. When the dog is alert, the forehead may be slightly wrinkled.
 
COAT
 
HAIR: The coat consists of a top coat and an undercoat. The top coat is of medium length, coarse, dense and flat. The undercoat must not show through the top coat. The hair is a little longer on the hindlegs.
 
COLOUR: Black with clearly defined markings of a rich tan on the cheeks, muzzle,throat, chest and legs, as well as over both eyes and under the base of the tail.
 
SIZE AND WEIGHT
 
Heigtht at withers: For males is 61 - 68 cm.
 
61 - 62 cm is small,63 - 64 cm is medium,  
 
65 - 66 cm is large - correct height,67 - 68 cm is very large
 
Weight: approximately 50 kg
 
Heigtht at withers: For bitches is 56 - 63cm. 56 - 57 cm is small,58 - 59 cm is medium height,60 - 61 cm is large - correct height 62 - 63 cm is very large
 
Weight: approximately 42 kg
 
FAULTS Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
 
General appearance: Light, weedy, leggy appearance. Light in bone and muscle.
 
Head: Hound-type head. Narrow, light, too short, long or coarse head. Flat forehead (lack of stop or too little stop).
 
Foreface: Long or pointed muzzle; split nose; Roman nose (convex nasal bridge) or dish-faced (concave nasal bridge); aquiline nose; pale or spotted nose(butterfly nose).
 
Lips: Pendulous, pink or patchy; corner of lips visible.
 
Jaws: Narrow lower jaw.
 
Bite: Pincer bite.
 
Cheeks: Strongly protruding.
 
Eyes: Light, deep set. Also too full and round eyes; loose eye-lids.
 
Ears: Set on too low, heavy, long, slack or turned backwards. Also flying ears or ears not carried symmetrically.
 
Neck: Too long, thin, lacking muscle. Showing dewlap or throaty.
 
Body: Too long, too short or too narrow.
 
Back: Too long, weak; sway-back or roach back.
 
Croup: Too sloping, too short, too flat or too long.
 
Chest: Flat ribbed or barrel shaped. Too narrow behind.
 
Tail: Set on too high or too low.
 
Forequarters: Narrow or crooked front legs. Steep shoulder placement. Loose or out at elbow. Too long, too short or too straight in upper arm. Weak or steep pastern. Splayed feet. Too flat or too arched toes. Deformed toes. Light coloured nails.
 
Hindquarters: Flat thighs, hocks too close, cow hocks or barrel hocks. Joints with too little or too much angulation. Dewclaws.
 
Skin: Wrinkles on head.
 
Coat: Soft, too short or too long. Wavy coat; lack of undercoat.
 
Colour: Markings of incorrect colour, not clearly defined.. Markings which are too spread out.
 
ELIMINATING FAULTS:
 
General: Distinct reversal of sexual type, i.e. feminine dogs or masculine bitches.
 
Teeth: Overshot or undershot bite, wry mouth; lack of one incisive tooth, one canine, one premolar and one molar.
 
Eyes: Entropion, ectropion, yellow eyes, different coloured eyes.
 
Tail: Kink tail, ring tail, with strong lateral deviation
 
Hair: Definitely long or wavy coat.
 
Colour: Dogs which do not show the typical Rottweiler colouring of black with tan markings. White markings.
 
Behaviour: Anxious, shy, cowardly, gun-shy, vicious, excessively suspicious, nervous animals.
 
N.B.: Male animals must have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
.

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Thanks trojan rotts and dog-tracker..
Revised: October 16, 2007 .