Training

We have tried to include information on all aspects of training our DOGS.  Please click on a link below to read more on each subject.

Table of Contents

1. Housebreaking
2. German Commands
3. What do those letters stands for?
4. The Recall
5. The Alpha Factor
6. Finding a Good Trainer
7. Form and Function

Housebreaking

Close Supervision Is Essential!

Close supervision is essential any time your puppy is not crated indoors (or confined to a small area covered with newspapers) . It only takes a few seconds for your puppy to have a house soiling accident, so watch for signs that your puppy may need to eliminate, such as sniffing the floor, circling, or running out of sight suddenly.

Confinement When Puppy Can't Be Supervised

Crate training (see below) or area confinement are recommended for puppies and most adolescent dogs when left unsupervised alone in the house. If properly introduced and used appropriately, crate training is an efficient and humane way to prevent housetraining accidents as well keep your puppy safe when you can not watch him (or when you leave the house/ apartment without him). The crate should not be used for excessive periods of time and should not be used as a punishment (although brief "time outs" in the crate are fine). Sufficient daily companionship, interactive playtime and exercise are very important to all puppies and dogs. 

[Note: Crate training and other forms of confinement must be balanced with sufficient exercise and companionship. Excessive periods of isolation can be very detrimental to your puppy, and can contribute to numerous behavioral problems including hyperactivity, destructive behavior, digging, self-mutilation, and excessive barking.]

Determine Puppy's Safety Zone, Grey Zone & Danger Zone

Keep a diary of your puppy's urinating and defecating times for several days or more. Determine the minimum interval between elimination. Subtract 15-30 minutes from this period of time and that will be your puppy's temporary "Safety Zone". This is the duration of time he can generally be trusted to hold his urine after he is taken for a walk or has "gone" on his newspapers, provided he does not drink a ton of water during this time. make sure however, that he is still closely supervised any time he is not confined to his crate or confinement area.

Frequent Access To Newspapers, Backyard, Or Taken For A Walk If Fully Immunized

Puppies need to urinate shortly after the eat, drink water, play, chew, or sleep. For most puppies over 10 weeks of age, that means somewhere between 5 and 10 times a day! Adolescent dogs (from 6 to 11 months. old) will need 4 to 6 walks a day. Adult dogs need 3 to 4 walks a day, and elderly dogs need at least 3 to 4 walks daily (incontinent dogs will need more).

Do Not Return From A Walk Until Your Puppy Eliminates

If your puppy has been confined overnight to a crate, take him outside first thing in the morning (before he's had a chance to soil indoors.) Be prepared to stay outdoors with him until he eliminates. (This could take from a few minutes to as much as several hours!) As soon as your puppy eliminates outdoors, offer him lavish praise and a treat. If you take your puppy back inside the house before he's fully eliminated, he will surely have an housesoiling accident indoors!

[Note: If you absolutely have to return home before your puppy does his "business", crate him, then try taking him outside again every 15-30 minutes until he "goes".]

Early Interactive Socialization With People Is Important

Early and ongoing interactive socialization with lots of friendly new people (including calm friendly children) is very important. If your puppy is not immunized sufficiently to taken for a walk, make sure to have lots of new people visit your puppy in your home. You can also carry your puppy outdoors to public places to properly acclimate him to the sights, sounds and activities of the outdoors (especially crowds of people and traffic noises) soon after he has received at least two series of shots, provided he is not placed on the sidewalk or streets, and he is not brought near other dogs (or anywhere other dogs might have been).

Praise & Reward Your Puppy For "Going" Outdoors

Lavish paise, a trigger word (ie: "potty", "get busy", "business", "bombs away", etc.) and a treat reward immediately following his eliminating in the right place (newspapers, backyard, or outdoors) will help you to communicate to your puppy that you are pleased with his behavior. Delayed praise is not effective, so witnessing him going in the right spot is important.

No Access To Inappropriate Areas To Eliminate

Many puppies and dogs prefer certain areas or surfaces to eliminate on, such as rugs, carpeting, etc. Keep your puppy away from risky areas or surfaces whenever possible. If your puppy suddenly runs out of sight (ei: out of the room), he may be looking for a secret spot to eliminate, so close doors to rooms where he may sneak a quick pee or poop.

Neutralize Urine Odors With Enzyme-Based Deodorizer

Should your puppy have a few house soiling accidents despite your best efforts to prevent them, neutralize any soiled areas (carpet or floor surface) with an pet odor neutralizer such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, Fresh 'n' Clean, or Outright Pet Odor Eliminator. Avoid using ammonia-based cleaners to clean up after your puppy's urine, as ammonia breaks down to urea, which is a component of urine. 

No Water After 9PM 

Generally speaking, it is advisable to take up your puppy's water bowl after 9 PM, unless he seems very thirsty or weather conditions are exceedingly hot. (But a couple of ice cubes are OK)

Eliminate Worms and Parasites

Contact your veterinarian if you suspect that your puppy has worms, coccidia, fleas, ticks, or other internal or external parasites.

Diarrhea Will Prevent Housetraining Success

Your puppy or dog cannot be expected to be reliable if he has diarrhea. Loose, liquidy or mucousy stools will hinder any housetraining success.

After-The-Fact Discipline Does NOT Work!

Never ever discipline (verbally or otherwise) your puppy or dog after-the-fact for house soiling accidents that you did not actually witness. (Even if you should see your puppy eliminate on the floor or carpet, harsh physical punishment is never recommended.)

Never Discipline A Dog For Submissive Urination!

Submissive and excitement urination are completely involuntary, so never discipline your puppy for this. Eye contact, verbal scolding, hovering over, reaching out to pet your puppy's head, animated movements, talking in an exciting or loud voice, as well as strangers/ visitors approaching your puppy, may all potentially trigger your puppy to piddle. Disciplining your puppy for involuntary piddling must be avoided or the problem will simply get worse.

CRATE TRAINING

Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.

A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when traveling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs. 

Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment. 

We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.

Preparing the Crate

Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away. 

Wire Mesh type: Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.

Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate. 

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate. 

Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:


Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
. 
In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

A Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated for long periods of time, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily). 

Important Reminders 

Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.

Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundland's, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]

Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes: 

The pup is too young to have much control.

The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.

The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.

The pup has worms.

The pup has gaseous or loose stools.

The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.

The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.

The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)

The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone. 

Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue throughout a dog's adult life.

Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.

Crating Duration Guidelines

9-10 Weeks        Approx. 30-60 minutes
11-14 Weeks      Approx. 1-3 hours
15-16 Weeks      Approx. 3-4 hours
17 + Weeks        Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)

*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5
hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)

The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercise is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercise is not enough!]

Children And The Crate

Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.

Barking In The Crate

In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.

When Not To Use A Crate

Do not crate your puppy or dog if:

S/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.

S/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.

S/he is vomiting.

You must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.

S/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.  (See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)

The temperature is excessively high.

S/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

Buying a Crate

Where to buy a crate: Crates can be purchased through most pet supply outlets, through pet mail order catalogs and through most professional breeders. Some examples are: 

Crate Size and Manufacturers:

Dog Size:

Small: (Vari-Kennel #100 or General Cage #201)
Toy Poodles, the Maltese, etc., with average weight of 6-10 lbs.

Medium Small: (Vari-Kennel #200 or General Cage #202/212)
Mini Schnauzers, Jack Russells, etc., with average weight of 11-20 lbs.

Medium: (Vari-Kennel #300 or General Cage #203/213)
Cocker Spaniels, Field Spaniels, small Shelties, etc., with average weight of 21-40 lbs.

Large: (Vari-Kennel #400 or General Cage #204/214)
Huskies, large Samoyeds, small Golden Retrievers, etc., with average weight of 41-65 Ibs.

Very Large: (Vari-Kennel #500 or General Cage #205/215) 
German Shepherds, Alaskan Malamutes, Rottweilers, etc., with average weight of 67-100 lbs.

Extra Large: (General Cage #206 or Mid-West #89-Z, 89-E or 99) 
Newfoundlands, Great Danes, etc, with average weight of 110 lbs. plus.


The Cost of A Crate

Crates can cost between $35 and $350 depending on the size and the type of crate and the source.

The Cost of Not Buying a Crate

- your shoes 

- books

- table legs

-          chairs and sofas

- throw rugs and carpet, and 

- electric, telephone and computer wires. 

The real cost, however, is your dog's safety and your peace of mind. 

Alternative Method Of Confining Your Puppy

There are alternative methods to crating very young puppies and puppies who must be left alone in the house for lengths of time exceeding the recommended maximum duration of confinement (see Crating Duration Guidelines). We suggest the following:

Use a small to medium-sized room space such as a kitchen, large bathroom or hallway with non- porous floor. Set up the crate on one end, the food and water a few feet away, and some newspaper (approx. 2'x3' to 3'x3') using a 3 to 4 layer thickness, several feet away. Confine your puppy to this room or area using a 3 ft. high, safety-approved child's gate rather than shutting off the opening by a solid door. Your pup will feel less isolated if it can see out beyond its immediate place of confinement. Puppy proof the area by removing any dangerous objects or substances.

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German Commands

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What do those letters stands for?

TERMS SEEN IN ROTTWEILER PEDIGREES

AD: Has passed the Endurance Test. 

ADRK: Allgemeiner Deutscber Rottweiler Klub, the parent club for the breed in Germany.

BIS: Was awarded Best in Show at a licensed all breed conformation show.

BISS: Was awarded BEST ROTTWEILER at a licensed Specialty Show.

BST: Breed Suitability Test similar to the ZTPR given in Germany 

CH: Has completed the requirements to be entitled an Canadian Kennel Club Champion of Record. When championship title was earned in a foreign country, must be preceded with country of origin of award, i.e., Mex Ch., Am. Ch., etc.

C.D.: Has completed the requirements for the Companion Dog obedience degree by receiving a qualifying score three separate times in NOVICE Obedience Class. 

C.D.X.: Has completed the requirements for Companion Dog Excellent obedience degree by receiving qualifying scores in the OPEN Obedience Class.

Gekort: Suitable for breeding for a period of 2 years; subject to reevaluation. Obtained at three years of age. Gekort Is rated suitable for breeding for the duration of bis EzA: Breeding Utilization Age: nine years in males, eight in females. Obtained at five years of age.

H.D.-: (H.D. frei) No indication of Hip Dysplasia.

H.D.+-: (H.D. good) Transition stage.

H.D.+: (H.D. fair) Mild indication of Hip Dysplasia. 

H.D.++: X-Rays show positive Hip Dysplasia. BREEDING IS PROHIBITED!!

H.D.+++: Severely dysplastic. BREEDING IS PROHIBITED!!

I.P.O.: Internationale Prufungsordnung. International Working Order International Trials incorporating tracking, obedience, and protection. Similar to Schutzhund with slight variations. Three levels:

I.P.O. 1: (minimum age 14 months)
I.P.O. 2: (16 months)
I.P.O. 3: (20 months)

Korung: Has met strict requirements in all areas; breed suitability, conformation, working, protection, is free from Hip Dysplasia. Dog or Bitch is suitable for breeding (Gekort) for a period of two years; after
that time dog and progeny are re-evaluated.

LS: Leistungszucht. Parents and grandparents have SchH degrees and Korung.

Pink Papers: Uninterrupted Schutzhund lineage.

Sch.H: Schutzhund. The working degree requiring extensive abilities in the areas of tracking, obedience, and protection. There are three levels of Schutzhund -

SchH I: Beginning Schutzhund (minimum age 14 months);
SchH II: Intermediate Schutzhund (16 months); and
SchH III: Advanced Schutzhund (18 months). After attaining the degree at any level, The dog must wait six months before being eligible for competition at the next higher level. Upon reaching SchH III, the dog is eligible for competition anytime.

Sieger: Male champion at a particular show (i.e., 1989 Klubsieger, winner of the 1989 A.D.R.K. Specialty Show).

Siegerin: Female champion at a particular show.

T.D.: Has passed an C.K.C. licensed Tracking Test. May be combined with the Utility Degree: U.D.T.

T.D.X. passed the C.K.C. licensed Tracking Dog Execellent Test. May be combined with Utility Degree: U.D.T.X.

U.D.: Has attained the Utility Dog degree by receiving three qualifying scores in UTILITY class.

WH.: Wachhund (Guard Dog). Obedience/Guard test. No bite work is involved in this training. 

Z.T.P.R.: Has passed the Breed Suitability test in Germany.

Organizations

AAC - Agility Association of Canada 
AKC - American Kennel Club 
CKC - Canadian Kennel Club 
NADAC - North American Dog Agility Council 
UKC - United Kennel Club (USA) 
USDAA - United States Dog Agility Association 


Flyball Titles

FD - Flyball Dog 
FDX - Flyball Dog Excellent 
FDCh - Flyball Dog Champion 
FM - Flyball Master 
FMX - Flyball Master Excellent 
FMCh - Flyball Master Champion 
ONYX - Award (named after first recipient) based on points earned 
FGDCh - Flyball Grand Champion 


Agility Titles

AX - Agility Excellent (AKC) 
MX - Master Agility Excellent (AKC) 
NA - Novice Agility (AKC) 
OA - Open Agility (AKC) 
NAJ - Novice Jumper With Weaves (AKC) 
OAJ - Open Jumper With Weaves (AKC) 
AXJ - Excellent Jumper With Weaves (AKC) 
MXJ - Master Jumper With Weaves (AKC) 
U-AGI  - Agility I (UKC) 
U-AGII - Agility II (UKC) 
U-ACH - Agility Champion (UKC) 
U-ACHX - Agility Champion Excellent (UKC) 
AD - Agility Dog (USDAA) 
VAD - Veteran Agility Dog (USDAA) 
VAAD - Veteran Advanced Agility Dog (USDAA) 
VMAD - Veteran Master Agility Dog (USDAA) 
VS - Veterans Snooker 
VJ - Veterans Jumper 
VG - Veterans Gambler 
VPD - Veteran Performance Dog 
AAD - Advanced Agility Dog (USDAA) 
MAD - Master Agility Dog (USDAA) 
SM - Snooker Master (USDAA) 
GM - Gambler Master (USDAA) 
PM - Pairs Master (USDAA) 
JM - Jumpers Master (USDAA) 
ADCH - Agility Dog Champion (USDAA) 
ADC - Agility Dog of Canada (AAC) 
AADC - Advanced Agility Dog of Canada (AAC) 
MADC - Master Agility Dog of Canada (AAC) 
O-, S-  Outstanding, Superior Peformance, prefixed to any NADAC title 
NAC, NAC-V, NAC-JH - Novice Standard, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
OAC, OAC-V, OAC-JH - Open Standard, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
EAC, EAC-V, EAC-JH - Elite Standard, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
NGC, NGC-V, NCG-JH - Novice Gamblers, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
OGC, OGC-V, OCG-JH - Open Gamblers, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
EGC, EGC-V, ECG-JH - Elite Gamblers, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
NJC, NJC-V, NJC-JH - Novice Jumpers, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
OJC, OJC-V, OJC-JH - Open Jumpers, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
EJC, EJC-V, EJC-JH - Elite Jumpers, Veterans, Junior Handler (NADAC) 
NATCh - Agility Trial Champion (NADAC) 


Obedience Titles

CD - Companion Dog (AKC, CKC) 
CDX - Companion Dog Excellent (AKC, CKC) 
CT - Champion Tracker (a dog with a TD, TDX and VST) (AKC) 
OTCh  - Obedience Trial Champion (prefix) (AKC, CKC) 
TD - Tracking Dog (AKC, CKC) 
TDX - Tracking Dog Excellent (AKC, CKC) 
U-CD - Companion Dog (prefix) (UKC) 
U-CDX - Companion Dog Excellent (prefix) (UKC) 
U-UD - Utility Dog (prefix) (UKC) 
UD - Utility Dog (AKC, CKC) 
UDT - Utility Dog title with a Tracking Dog title (AKC) 
UDTX - Utility Dog title with a Tracking Dog Excellent title (AKC) 
UDX - Utility Dog Excellent (AKC) 
UDVST - Utility Dog title with a Variable Surface Tracking title (AKC) 
VST - Variable Surface Tracking (AKC) 

NOTE 1: The AKC OTCh is much different and more difficult to achieve than the Canadian (CKC) OTCh. The CKC OTCh
is equivalent to getting a Canadian UD. In other words the CKC UD = CKC OTCh. 

NOTE 2: There are no combined titles for dogs with UDX and other tracking titles. 

NOTE 3: The Champion Tracker title is not a competitively earned title and does not figure into Dual or Triple Champion titles.
(The OTCH can be the third CH in a Triple, though.) 


Schutzhund

AD - 12 1/2 mile endurance run (can move from the other category) 
B - German equiv. of a CD and CGC test in one 
SchH I, SchH II, SchH III - comprising three phases -tracking, obedience and protection. dog must pass all three phases to earn title 

FH - advanced tracking title (comparable to TDX) 
WH - watchdog title 
KKL - Koer'd means the dog is certified as eligible for breeding under the German breed survey system 


AKC Herding Titles

HCH - Herding Champion (prefix) 
HI - Herding Intermediate 
HS - Herding Started 
HT - Herding Tested 
HX - Herding Excellent 
PT - Pre-trial Tested 


Herding Titles - AHBA (American Herding Breeds Association) 

HCT - Herding Capable Tested 
* HTD1 - Herding Trial Dog, first level 
* HTD2 - Herding Trial Dog, second level 
* HTD3 - Herding Trial Dog, third level 
JHD - Junior Herd Dog 

* The official AHBA HTD title can have up to 4 suffixes: -d for ducks; -s for sheep; -g for goats; or -c for cattle. The title will
always have at least one of these suffixes. 


Herding Titles - ASCA (Australian Shepherd Club of America)

* ATD - Advanced Trial Dog 
* OTD - Open Trial Dog 
RD - Ranch Dog (dog has been evaluated by a judge while doing its routine farm tasks & certified to be a useful
working dog) 
* STD - Started Trial Dog 
WTCH - Working Trial Champion (prefix)
(dog has earned ATD on all 3 types of stock) 

* Always with suffix -s, -d, -c to indicate title earned on sheep, ducks or cattle. Titles earned separately on each type of stock. 


Field Trials - AKC, CKC

AFC - Amateur Field Champion, (prefix) (must be owner handled) 
CFC - Canadian Field Champion, (prefix) 
CAFC - Canadian Amateur Field Champion, (prefix) 
FC - Field champion, (prefix)(can be professional handler, open class) 
FD - Field Dog (pointing, CKC) 
FDJ - Field Dog Junior (pointing, CKC) 
FDX - Field Dog Excellent (pointing, CKC) 
NFC - National Field Champion, (prefix) 


Go To Ground/Terrier Trials/Tests

JE - Junior Earthdog (AKC) 
ME - Master Earthdog (AKC) 
SE - Senior Earthdog (AKC) 

NOTE 1: AWTA Titles and other Terrier titles missing. 


Coursing Titles - ASFA (American Sighthound Field Association)

F.Ch. - Field Champion 
LCM - Lure Courser of Merit 
LCM2 - Lure Courser of Merit 2
(has met the requirements for LCM twice over. LCM3, LCM4, etc. are also available) 


Coursing Titles - AKC

JC - Junior Courser (suffix) 
SC - Senior Courser (suffix) 
F.Ch. - Field Champion (prefix) 


Coursing Titles - NAOFA (North American Open Field Association)

CC - Coursing Champion 
CM - Courser of Merit 


Coursing Titles - NACA (North American Coursing Association)

NACC - NACA Coursing Champion 
NACM - NACA Courser of Merit 


Hunt Test Titles

GMHR - Grand Master Hunting Retriever (NAHRA) 
JH - Junior Hunter (AKC) 
SH - Senior Hunter (AKC) 
SR - Started Retriever (NAHRA) 
MH - Master Hunter (AKC) 
MHR - Master Hunting Retriever (NAHRA) 
WR - Working Retriever (NAHRA) 

NAHRA titles incomplete, need UKC/HRC titles too. 


Working Certificates (breed clubs)

WAC - Working Aptitude Certificate (Doberman Pincher Club of America) 
WC - Working Certificate (various breed clubs, differs) 
WCI - Working Certificate Intermediate (various breed clubs, differs) 
WCX - Working Certificate Excellent (various breed clubs, differs) 
WD - Working dog (American Chesapeake Club, ACC) 
WDX - Working dog excellent (ACC) 
WDQ - working dog qualified (ACC) 
WD - Water dog (Newfoundland Club of America, NCA) 
WRD - Water rescue dog (NCA) 
DD - Draft dog (NCA) 
TDD - Team draft dog (NCA) 
VN - Versatile Newfoundland (NCA) 

American Water Spaniels

SD - Started Dog (American Water Spaniel Club -- AWSC) 
WD - Working Dog (AWSC) 
WDX - Working Dog Excellent (AWSC) 
WDS - Working Dog Superior 
JWD - Junior Working Dog (American Water Spaniel Field Assoc. -- AWSFA) 
SWD - Senior Working Dog (AWSFA) 
MWD - Master Working Dog (AWSFA) 


Miscellaneous Titles

CG - Certificate of Gameness (American Working Terrier Assn) 
CGC - Canine Good Citizen Certificate 

CGN - Canine Good Neighbour (CKC)
CH - Champion (prefix) 
HIC - Herding Instinct Certified 

HIT - Herding Instinct Tested
TD - Therapy Dog 
TDI - Therapy Dog International 
TT - Temperment Tested by ATTS (or other official organizations) 


Breed Acronyms

BC - Border Collie 
CBR - Chesapeake Bay Retriever 
CCR - Curly-coated Retriever 
FCR - Flat-coated Retriever 
GD - Great Dane 
GR - Golden Retriever 
GSD - German Shepherd Dog 
GSP - German Shorthaired Pointer 
GWP - German Wirehaired Pointer 
LR - Labrador Retriever 
OES - Old English Sheepdog 
PBGV - Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen 
PWC - Pembroke Welsh Corgi 


Other Dog-Related Acronyms

ACVO - American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists 
BJ - Broad Jump or Bar Jump (context) 
CERF - Canine Eye Registry Foundation 
DJ - Directed Jumping 
DOR  - Drop on Recall 
F8 - Figure Eight 
HD - Hip Displasia (sometimes CHD) 
ILP - AKC Indefinite Listing Privilege for unpapered purebreds 
LP - UKC's Listing Privilege for unpapered purebreds/mixed breeds 
OFA - Orthopedic Foundation for Animals 
ROF - Retrieve on the Flat 
ROH - Retrieve over the High Jump 
ROM - Register of Merit 

DOG SHOW ABBREVIATIONS  (Philippines)
 
FOR TITLES:
 
CH -PHIL CHAMPION
PGC-PHIL GRAND CHAMP
HOF-HALL OF FAME
 
DURING THE SHOW:
 
WD-WINNERS DOG
WB-WINNERS B-I-T-C-H
BOW-BEST OF WINNERS
BOB-BEST OF BREED
RUBOB-RUNNER UP BEST OF BREED
BOS-BEST OPPOSITE SEX
BPB-BEST PHILIPPINE BORN
BBP-BEST BABY PUPPY
 
BIG--BEST IN GROUP  
BBPIG-BEST BABY PUPPY IN GROUP
 
BIS-BEST IN SHOW
BBPIS-BEST BABY PUPPY IN SHOW

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The Recall

Teaching your dog to "Come" is one of the most important lessons she will ever learn. The sooner you begin teaching "Come" the better chance you have for a lifetime of reliable recalls. But even old dogs can learn new tricks! Older dogs, strays, and shy dogs that do not understand or are fearful of the "Come" command can be reprogrammed for success through time, consistency, and praise. 

It takes time to teach "Come." Most puppies will "come" to you whenever you decide to walk away because they instinctively follow you. A reliable response to "come," however, usually takes months of consistent and positive reinforcement. You want your dog to literally stop in her tracks, turn around on a dime, and happily come running to you whenever the "come" command is given. This is an end result, so do not expect too much of your puppy or dog too soon. 

The easiest way to associate your new puppy or dog with the "come" command is to begin using it on their first day home! Yes, even at 8 weeks old, you can begin to use positive reinforcement associated with the "come" command. Whenever your puppy or dog is already coming to you (on her own), wait until she is about 2-3 feet from you and then say "(Dog's Name) Come!" in a very happy voice. When she gets to you (about 2 seconds later), hug her, clap your hands, and basically make a huge fuss over her. This exercise should be practiced frequently and consistently for 3-5 months (depending on the age and response of your dog). Then it should be practiced periodically for the rest of your dog's life. This is a wonderful exercise because your dog will always perform it perfectly! She will always receive praise because she cannot do it wrong. It is of the utmost importance that your dog initiates coming to you on her own, so you need to look for this opportunity, realize it, and then say "Come!" when she's almost at your feet. If she doesn't "come" after you command her to "come"....then you said the command too early. You need to wait until she is almost right on top of you! With this exercise, your dog will learn that "come" is a really good thing. (After a while, you can lengthen the distance from when you start to say COME, but be careful and don't push your luck.) 

One of the biggest mistakes people make when playing with their dog is chasing them. Rule number one: if you want a reliable recall, NEVER, EVER, chase your dog (unless it is a dire emergency). I know your new puppy may look very cute as she scoots her furry butt around the house while you chase her, but don't. Stop all chasing where you are the "chaser." Instead, encourage your puppy or dog to chase you! Teach your dog to play "chase" by you running around the house (or yard), with your dog chasing you. If your dog will not play, you need to be creative. Get down on your hands and knees and "playbow" to her, crawl away real fast then roll on the ground and let her "catch" you. Make it really happy and fun! Don't use food, use fun. It is important that your dog learns to always "chase" or "follow" you, and at the same time, she's learning to never run away. 

After a few weeks or months, as your dog begins to enjoy the "come" command, you can start "testing" it as a command. However, you will regress quickly at this point unless you can back up every "test!" You can back up your "come" command a few different ways. One way is to
periodically put a harness and lead on your dog and let her drag the lead around (under your supervision). Nonchalantly pick up the lead (without your dog noticing), then say "(Dog's Name) COME!" in a happy voice, if she doesn't come on her own, gently tug on the lead to encourage her. If she still doesn't come, pull her to you while saying COME! COME! in a very happy voice. When she reaches you (buy gentle force or on her own), give her loads of praise. I remind you that your dogs' lead is attached to a harness, not a collar. When you physically pull her to you, you are not choking your dog, nor causing any discomfort. The harness allows you to pull her at her center of gravity and induces "force" in the least "forceful" manner possible. Many people train dogs to "come" by "popping" a choker collar to get their attention. In my opinion, this is perceived as negative reinforcement for most dogs. I do not believe negative reinforcement establishes the foundation of trust and respect between animal and human that is needed for fool proof recalls. 

Another way to back up your "come" command is to have someone else "physically walk" your dog to you when you command her to COME. This is accomplished by waiting until your dog is next to another family member (on your dogs' own free will.) Establish communication with the other family member and confirm that they are ready to "back up" your come command. Then say "(Dog's Name) COME!" in a happy voice. If your dog comes to you, praise lavishly, if she hesitates, encourage her by getting on your knees, clap your hands, etc. If she does not come on her own the other family member (who the dog is right next to) gently but firmly wraps their arms around the dogs' mid-section and lifts gently, pushing gently forward, thus "physically walking" your dog to you. Again, this method accomplishes the goal by moving your dog via your dogs' center of gravity, not by tugging, pulling, or pushing. The same thing can be accomplished if your dog is already wearing a harness. If she already has a harness on, simply grasp the harness at its top center and "help" her along! I have used this method with shy, fearful, stray dogs. I put a harness on them for most of the day and it gives me the opportunity to reinforce a positive come command throughout the day! 


Now that you are familiar with the exercises, you must practice them frequently and consistently.  Remember: 

1. NEVER, ever chase your dog! 

2. NEVER, ever scold your dog when she comes to you. 

3. For the first months of practice, and until your dog comes to you reliably, NEVER command your dog to COME unless you have the lead in your hand to back up your command (or someone else has their hands on the dog to back up your command.) 

4. If you need your dog for something and you don't have the lead in your hand, go and get your dog. Don't test the COME command when you are unsure of her response. 

5. Never call your dog using the "come" command, and then ignore her refusal. Always back up your command! Go and get your dog. As you approach your dog tell her "STAY!" until you reach her. Then walk her back to the spot you originated from repeating "COME! COME!" When you get to the spot, praise her for coming. You must show her that she should have "COME" in the first place. After all, it's a really good thing!

Do these things for about 3-5 months. During this time, your dog will learn that the COME command is a wonderful thing! She never does it wrong! She always gets praised! After your dog repeatedly and thoroughly demonstrates that she understands the "come" command, you can start slowly testing your dog. When you test your dog, never tell her to come if you think she won't, always go and get her instead. Remember, make it easy for her to do good. The only time to tell her to come when you are unsure of her response is in an emergency. Otherwise, go and get your dog.

If you have a dog that does not respond well to the "come" command due to negative reinforcement in the past, change the command to "Here!" or anything else that you can say in a happy voice with one syllable. Start doing the exercises mentioned in this article using the new command and you will begin to build respect, trust, and a reliable recall in your dog.

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The Alpha Factor

Introduction

Regardless of your reason for acquiring a puppy, you'll have to win it over. You, not your dog, will have to be the leader of the pack if your pup is to develop into a well-mannered family member instead of a burden. Dominance and alpha behavior are important concepts that every dog owner should comprehend.

Dogs are animals, not human beings. They are pack animals by nature. Every pack has a leader, known as the alpha animal, who dominates and leads the other members of the pack. The alpha is the boss who makes decisions for the entire pack. Usually the pack will have an alpha male and an alpha female. All the other members of the pack form a hierarchy of dominance and submission where everyone has a place.

In your home, you and your family become your dog's pack, as do any other dogs you may have. It is your responsibility to establish yourself in the alpha position. If you fail to do this, your dog will do it as a natural behavior. Many people assume that they are automatically in charge just because humans are superior to animals. But are you really the pack leader? Does your dog know it? 

Being the pack leader does not mean you have to be big and aggressive. Nor does it mean that there has to be a battle of wills after which you are the victor. Anyone can be the pack leader. It is an attitude an air of authority. It is the basis for mutual respect, and provides the building blocks of communication between the two of you. 

A pack animal becomes a full fledged member of the group by a process called subordination. With dogs, subordination begins shortly after the third week of life and continues throughout early development. Most normal, healthy puppies are basically pushy animals, and will try to advance as far as possible within the social order of the pack. The key to successfully rearing a
puppy is to establish yourself as the pack leader and then maintain that position for the life of your dog.

So how do you become the alpha leader? In the wild, the adults of the pack begin early to teach the cubs the rules. The adults grab pups around the head or neck and gently, but firmly, pin them to the ground. The cubs learn to greet the adults with respect by approaching them using a slightly crouching posture, with ears back, tail down and wagging, and they lick the adults'
muzzles. The cubs do this as a sign of respect and affection, not out of fear. It is called the subordination display, and its function is to keep peace and harmony within the pack.


Alpha Exercises

Leadership exercises can confirm humans as the heads of the family pack. Once you establish this relationship, your dog will seek you out. He will want to be with you and will treat you with respect and affection. After he learns to submit to handling, all other tasks such as grooming, nail clipping, cleaning ears, and medicating will be easier to accomplish. But first he must learn
that you have the power to handle him, and that handling will not lead to any harm. He must come to trust you entirely.

These exercises will help establish leadership but should not be used with an older pup who has learned to use his teeth to get his way. Exercises one and two are recommended only for small puppies up to three months of age. Exercises three and four are suitable for pups up to six months of age as long as there's no problem with aggression. Be gentle but firm with all exercises, as you would with a baby human. 

1.    Sit on the floor, then pick your pup up off the floor with both hands supporting him just behind his front legs, facing you. Hold him away from you at arms length. Look directly into his eyes. Growl at him if he struggles, using a low guttural sound. Hold him till he relaxes. Vary the time you hold him in this position from 15 to 45 seconds. Vary the location.  

2.    Sit on the floor and cradle your pup, placing one hand under his head and the other supporting his back so that he is upside down on his back, and up in the air. Hold a larger puppy across your lap. Hold the pup for 15 to 45 seconds, using the same growl as in exercise 1 if he struggles. Hold him until he relaxes. 

3.    If your puppy is large, substitute this exercise for the first two. Straddle your pup, with one of your legs on each side of him. You should be facing the same direction as your dog. Lock your fingers together under his chest, just behind the front legs. Lift his front legs off the ground for 15 to 45 seconds. If he struggles, growl at him till he is quiet. 

4.    Place your dog on the floor with all four legs pointing away from you. Hold him firmly by the neck with one hand, and press down on his midsection with the other hand. Talk to him softly after he is quiet. It might take two or three minutes to get him to relax. If he exposes his belly to be rubbed, you are on the right track. Do not allow him to struggle, get up, or nip. Always praise him lavishly in a quiet tone when he relaxes. Now is also a good time to handle all four paws and look briefly into his mouth so he can get used to tolerating your handling him gently. Be sure to do this exercise four or five times a day at first. Taper off as the pup gets more used to you and accepts your leadership. 


The Stare

Eye contact is also one of the ways order is kept in a wolf pack. Only an alpha animal may use the stare to remind everyone who is in charge. When you initiate eye contact, you express your alpha position. Encourage your pup to maintain eye contact for several seconds, making it a pleasant experience. Do not force him to do so. Use the term "watch me" and always praise
him the instant you have eye contact. However, you do not want to try to do this with a dog who thinks he is already in charge of things. The dog must know you are the leader first. Otherwise you will begin a stare-down contest. An alpha dog will not be willing to be first to avert his eyes. If you are the first to avert or even blink your eyes, it will help confirm the dog's alpha status.


Alpha Discipline: Pack Leader Activities

There are many pack leader activities you can use as part of a daily training routine. Probably the single most important command your dog can learn is "sit." You can incorporate "sit" into everyday situations as a reminder that you are in charge of things. Tell your dog to "sit" before you feed him, before you play, before he goes out the door. This shows the dog that he must respond to you before indulging in his own pleasures. If he is obedience trained, put him in a down-stay while you prepare his dinner.

Your dog will accept you as pack leader as long as you are consistent and fair in your demands. You must never permit him to growl or snap. If he does, a severe scruff shake is necessary, followed by no attention from you for 10 to 15 minutes. The scruff is the loose skin around the dog's neck. If your pet growls or snaps and you are not afraid to handle him, grab him firmly by the scruff with both hands, stare him in the eyes, and shake him. Then put him in his crate for 15-20 minutes and ignore him.

If your dog growls or snaps and you are afraid to discipline him, seek professional help. Don't ignore the incident; a dog allowed to threaten his family can easily become a biter.

Never overlook any challenge to your authority. Most dogs will test their owners, usually in adolescence. When the issue is settled immediately, it usually ends the matter.

There are several books that will help owners establish leadership to assure a long, healthy relationship with a pet. There are also several training clubs and businesses in the area for those who prefer an instructor's assistance and for those who need help with problem dogs.

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Finding a Good Trainer

With so many people involved in the field of professional dog training today, trying to determine who's truly qualified can be a difficult task. For those trying to decide on a professional dog trainer, the American Dog Trainers Network offers the following criteria concerning what to look for:

An excellent reputation. Shop around and get recommendations from your vet, the SPCA, the city's other humane societies, and other reputable trainers.  We highly recommend you contacting the CKC or AKC and the National Breed Club for your Breed (Rottweiler Club Of Canada).

Widespread experience. Inquire about his or her training background, years of experience, and areas of expertise. You deserve to have your questions answered, so don't be timid about asking them. (Also, see consumer warning at the bottom of this article.) 

Humane training methodology and gentle, effective handling skills.  Reputable trainers are concerned about their dogs' welfare. They also know that harsh or abusive handling methods are not only unnecessary, but are often counter-productive as well. 

A genuine love of and devotion to dogs. When you find a trainer with this important quality you'll know it. The joy of living and working with dogs makes this person shine. 

Extensive behavioral knowledge. Dedicated trainers keep themselves up-to-date by attending dog training and animal behavior courses, conferences, seminars and workshops whenever possible. 

Good teaching and communication skills. Trainers who have this gift make the learning process quicker, easier and more enjoyable for their students. 

A sense of humor. Training can and should be fun for both dogs and owners. A positive attitude and a little laughter goes a long way. 

Affiliations with reputable associations, organizations, training clubs and National Clubs. While this is not mandatory, it's certainly a plus. 

Ethics before profit. Is monetary profit his or her primary motive for training dogs? Is everything this trainer does geared towards making money? While financial success is great, ethics must come first. 


A NOTE OF WARNING: Unless a dog trainer comes highly recommended to you by *at least* one reputable source, the bottom line for the consumer is BUYER BEWARE! 

Remember, absolutely anyone can call himself a dog trainer or behaviorist. Slick ads with inflated claims, grandiose self-descriptions, and impressive sounding titles can be very deceptive. Investigate any stated affiliations a trainer lists on his or her brochure, Yellow Pages ad or web site. If a trainer claims to be affiliated with an organization (past or present) or claims to have "studied" with well-known dog trainers or behaviorists, ask for their telephone numbers and contact them to be sure. NOTE: A common ploy for some trainers, is to attend a couple one-or two-day seminars or workshops with a well-known dog expert (or University), then claim to have studied with that person (or at that institution). 

Also, verify how many years the trainer you are considering has been training dogs professionally. While years alone are not enough to determine a trainer's experience level in and of itself, it's certainly says a lot. 

A FINAL NOTE: Beware of dog trainers who care more about publicity, public relations, and celebrities, than they care about your dog and the quality of training they provide. Many professional dog trainers have worked with celebrities and high-profile people. But take note if the trainer seems totally pre-occupied with dropping names, and bills himself as the "Trainer To The Stars", something that says little or nothing about his ability as a dog trainer.

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Form and Function

Introduction

Dog trainers, breeders, and other fanciers are adamant in their advice: 

Do your homework so you select a breed that is compatible with your lifestyle;  Avoid pet stores and back yard breeders;  Go to a reputable, responsible breeder to get a healthy puppy. 

Solid as this advice is, it doesn't cover all the bases for the potential dog owner. Once the breed is selected, the job the dog will be expected to do is a prime consideration for choosing the breeder who can produce the puppy you want.

Every dog owner has some expectations for a relationship with a pet. Whether a dog is company to talk to and cuddle with, a buddy to jog or hike with, a hunting partner, a home watchdog or guardian, a traveling companion, a connection with the natural world, a pet for the children, a potential competitor in a variety of sports, or a future breeding prospect, every dog owner selects a dog with some expectations in mind. Those expectations are more likely to be met if the buyer's homework includes a study of his breed's original purpose and looks for a puppy that has been bred to do that job.


Canine careers

Dogs were developed to work with and for man. The idea of companionship was secondary in a world where people hunted and farmed to feed their families and depended on dogs to guard home and hearth, rid the premises of pests, and provide draft power. Sporting dogs, scent hounds, sighthounds, herding dogs, cart dogs, terriers, sled dogs, rescue dogs were created to work. Even toy dog had a function; bred down from larger breeds in many cases, they became bedwarmers and flea magnets in palaces and estates around the globe.

Obviously, many canine careers no longer exist and some have been relegated to sport rather than work. Few Golden Retrievers accompany hunters in the field, but more and more compete in hunting tests and trials. Collies and Corgis don't see much action on farms, Borzoi don't hunt wolves, Akitas don't hunt bears, most Siberian Huskies never see a sled, and few Dalmatians ever see a horse or a coach. Some breed clubs have revived training for the breed's original purpose with instinct tests and achievement trials, but many breeds have no organized jobs or sports and most dogs are bred to be pets.


Form And Function

Although dog jobs have changed or disappeared and modern humans value dogs more as companions than partners, form and function remain critical to the selection of a healthy puppy that is physically able to meet buyer expectations. For example, a Golden Retriever or English Springer Spaniel with poor shoulder structure may not only lack the stamina to hunt all day, he is unlikely to be able to jog, hike, jump, romp with the kids, or chase a ball for any length of time, particularly as he gets older. An Australian Shepherd or Pembroke Welsh Corgi that will never herd cattle still needs proper structure to compete in agility and obedience events; a Saluki or Greyhound that will never course after antelope or hare still must have the proper front and rear angulation to gallop after the plastic bag on a lure-coursing field.Beyond the need to maintain the original purpose of a chosen breed, we are often in awe of the incredible way that dogs are far more than a sum of their parts. This appreciation of the dog as an animal, an athlete, a protector, an alarm, or simply a creature of great beauty should figure in the search for a breeder as well as a breed, for a knowledge of form and function are part of this picture, too. 

Job Training

Most breeds can be retrained to do modern jobs even while maintaining the form and function that served them well in their traditional careers. Sporting breeds and hounds can compete in tests and trials that simulate hunting everything from upland game birds and waterfowl to small mammals. Breed clubs and the American Kennel Club have devised several competitions to determine whether a dog has the mental and physical talent to maintain the integrity of its breed. Terriers and Dachshunds "go-to-ground" in simulated vermin hunts; retrievers, pointers, setters, spaniels, and Beagles, Bassets, and coonhounds prove their prowess in the field; sighthounds run lickety-split after a plastic bag in lure-coursing events; and herding dogs practice their skills on sheep and ducks.

Some breeds have such specialized talents that their tests and trials are done within their national breed clubs. Here Newfoundlands participate in draft and water tests; Rottweilers, Bernese Mountain Dogs, and Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs demonstrate their carting ability; Samoyeds, Siberian Huskies, and Alaskan Malamutes pull sleds and go back-packing; Portuguese Water Dogs do water tests; and Dalmatians do road work in the tradition of the coach dogs of the past. 

Many breeds are so resourceful that they have expanded their resumes. German Shepherd Dogs not only herded and guarded flocks in their early days, they have become the most versatile of all breeds by adding war dog, service dog, search and rescue dog, police dog, tracking dog, movie star, and more to their bags of tricks. But GSDs are the not only canines with hidden talents. Rottweilers, Belgian Malinois, Giant Schnauzer, Doberman Pinscher, Boxers, and Bouvier des Flandres are among the breeds that have served man well as police and army dogs; Labrador and Golden Retrievers are among the top breeds used as guide dogs for blind owners; Labs are highly prized as sniffing dogs and trackers; Beagles ferret out contraband at airports; and many other breeds have directed their talents in many directions.

To do these jobs, the dog's form and function must be of a piece so the work gets done with a minimum of effort.

Show Dogs

The Canadian Kennel Club, the American Kennel Club, the United Kennel Club, individual breed clubs, the American Rare Breeds Association, and other groups of breed fanciers sponsor shows where dogs are judged according to breed standards to determine if they meet breed type, a combination of structure, movement, and general appearance that differentiates one breed from another. These shows are sometimes derided as "beauty contests," but when breeders and other exhibitors bring good dogs to be evaluated and judges understand the breed standard and purpose, these shows highlight the dogs that are suitable as breeding stock to produce the next generation of puppies.

Dogs that compete only in the breed ring at all-breed shows and specialties are in danger of losing their breed function. Judges have only two minutes to check a dog by hand and watch it move coming, going, and from the side. That's 120 seconds to make sure the shoulder layback and the angle of the hindquarters are compatible, that length of loin and rib cage are in balance, that the head, ears, tail, coat, depth of chest, spring of ribs, and depth of shoulder are true to breed type and that they all work together to produce a strong, effortless gait in the confines of a show ring that may not offer enough space for the dog to reach his stride.

Conformation-only shows do not prove that a dog has the ability to do the job he was bred to do. Thus many show-giving clubs also provide a variety of other activities, some of them connected with the breed's original job and others that channel the dog's ability into other streams of endeavor. The most common events held in conjunction with conformation shows are all-breed obedience and agility trials; most other skill contests are limited to certain breeds or groups and tend to take place independently. 

Many people who take part in these events with their dogs never breed a litter and never enter a conformation ring. They do, however, build wonderful bonds with their pets through training for agility, obedience, or field work and incidentally help maintain the form and function of the breed they love.

The dog that brightens your home should make your heart beat a little faster when you see him race across the back yard, leap into the air to catch a ball, or look at you with intensity. He should make you laugh at his antics, wonder at his thought processes, and bring a lump to your throat when he hurts. If you also treasure a breed for its historical significance and want a purebred dog to romp with the kids, compete in canine events, visit nursing homes, hike in the woods, or join a search and rescue team, add it all to the formula when choosing a breeder and an individual puppy for a good start on a lifelong relationship. 

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AT Trojan Rottweilers
Revised: October 16, 2007 .